2000 RCA Entertainment Series 27" console model G27647 problem
 

This set has been on the front porch of a house after owner passed for some time. Cosmetically has held up pretty well with the exception of the power cord being chewed in half. I cleaned it up and plugged it in today only to find a line running across the screen with only the bottom half displaying anything. I've been having problems with my camera this past week so the pics are terrible. Any idea what's causing only half the screen to show?

If only the white line was showing, I would say the vertical oscillator or output tube is defective, or the vertical output transformer was open. If only half of the picture shows on the screen, however, I don't know and would not know where to guess the trouble might be (I've been away from electronics for over 20 years, having had to give up my workshop in my former home in 1999 when I moved to an apartment late that year--long story and OT).

Your camera seems to be working if it is producing the images you are showing in your post, so I wouldn't be too concerned about it. The first thing I would do, however, would be to charge the battery(ies), if your camera uses one or more such cells.

BTW, I am amazed the TV is working at all after sitting on a front porch in goodness knows what kind of weather (!) for years, the only damage being a chewed-up power cord. Most electronic devices, let alone very old televisions, will not take that for any length of time, and would probably go up in smoke if plugged in and turned on without being dried out first (if the set has been exposed to water for any length of time, as this one seems to have been). Replacing the damaged power cord is a good first step, but there is almost certainly other damage under the chassis which must be corrected before the set can be considered repaired for good. This TV is not all that old, however, having been made in the year 2000, so whatever is or may be wrong with it may not be as bad as you may think.

It's totally dry. Doesn't seem to have ever been wet inside. Particle board and mdf don't last long in dampness. Everything solid otherwise. I remember running older 19 inch sets that had been in rain outside for many long months and I actually got lucky alot. That was probably 25, 30 years ago lol. I might try to connect a vcr or something and see if I can get a better shot

hey man bad cap in vert look for 35v 100uf that what goes bad in every tv.

I have a 35v 220 uf. Will that pass? If not, I'll have to look and see if I have a 100

You can go 10% higher so it would work. you can go higher but not lower.

Awesome. Kinda figured but couldn't remember. I'll update once I get it in.

Ok I kept looking and found a 35v 100 uf so I'll be putting it in a couple days or so.

I'm finding 2 that are 35v 220uf but no 100uf. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place. I'm not familiar with the ctc203ax I wish I had a diagram. Doesn't help that I need glasses for close up stuff lol

its usually the 35 volt that goes bad.

So it's one of the 35 220?

it was always the 35. i would replace anyone close vert output. you can pull caps off old junks boards. remember you can go higher but not lower. that's both volts and uf.

Ok so it must be the smallest one in the pic. It's a 35v 220uf

yes that's the closest to the output. there's just three caps just replace them and go from there. like i said you grab them off old boards. when i had my shop i would buy allotment of electronics from goodwill in Atlanta. Now there might 60 TV's 20 VCR's and they would throw in microwaves. I don't work on microwaves, but i had to take them all, but for 50.00 cant complain. The first ten i would use for parts. The first set i sold made back my money and the rest was gravy. I just my time it, so keep that in mind.

That's cool. Miss the old days. I'll replace and get back to you

Ok, changed the 35v 220uf and now it looks like this:

deflection has gotten better. you said it outside for awhile, now you can sub a cap underneath. just make sure its + to + and - to - until you find the bad one. Theirs a bad cap in there close.

Yeah, the next cap in line is a 35v 1000uf. I have a 35v 1500uf. Ok to use?

yes you can.

Cool. Tomorrow's agenda👍

Replaced the 35v 1000uf and here's how it looks:

well after i looked the picture again that's not the vert section. coming from the yoke there should be 2 wires one yellow and one green. follow them down to the chassis that will be the vert section. same thing find the bad cap.

At the yoke, I got two sets of wires. One set says yoke H which as brown and red. The other set is yoke V and it's brown and black.the brown and black run to the caps we changed. I do have a yellow and green but they come from the board on the gun.

https://elektrotanya.com/rca_chassis...wnload.html#dl hey i found the service info. with thosehttps://elektrotanya.com/rca_chassis_ctc203_training_manual.pdf/download.html#dl sets the tuner ground did not have goo solder from the factory. that cause the e prom go bad, but first check the voltage on the vert side only see if what the reading is. plus do a ohms check on that side. i leaning towards bad vert chip. the e prom was just for a few chassis. the bread butter of shop. give that a try.

Will do. I'll get back with you.

I'm not good this multimeters except when using for home wiring etc. I took the board to a guy and showed him what u said. He said he can't check it because he doesn't have an oscilloscope etc. I have my meter but not sure of where to set it or where to test.

i am going to be honest i don't you to get hurt. there's not much in the vert section. 90 percent is in the output chip. i hate to say the parts cannon, but you half deflection and the bottom has a nice picture, so do not give up. the tough dogs are more rewarding to fix. there's about 10 parts in the circuit. you replace the 3 caps and has the pulse from fbt. cap from the ic was replaced and the 3rd was to. that's the next thing other checking resistors and diode.

Going at this one piece at a time, what should I check next?

check diode 14501 the resistors download the service menu a look at page 43 shows the whole section. it has to be the output replace that.

Ok I found the cr14501 right next to the caps we replaced. I have trays full of new diodes. Is there a specific number or something I need to look for yo get a match?

try a rectifier diode lowest you got. get close as you can to 35 volts. check the resistance on the resistor network. i could tell you how to do voltage checks, if i do i would like for you to at least watch some u tube videos. need to see if you your 23v supply and 13.6 off the vert side of yoke and 7.6v supply from jungle ic. i am betting the output ic. get an idea on checking voltage and i can tell where to check.

Ok I'll check into it

I have new diodes showing 8435 SA7.OA

you have a sa8.0a that's 13.6v. you could try it, but i suggest voltage checks first.

Looks like the sa7 is all I have besides a sa5

PAC
saw ur message. jbattles giving you good help so far. I will jump in
with comments.
1) several resistors in around the vert IC look overheated. Cant tell for sure but they are the 2 light blue ones.
2) if you order parts buy a new vert out IC, they should be under $10.
3) look under the vert out IC. See if it has bad joints or is getting
toasty brown.
4) try tapping the chassis & see if the pix returns to normal.

The CTC203 was the last true RCA then they went China.
I only saw a hand full & that means either not many were built or they
were very reliable. Hence I have little knowledge of them.
Good luck
Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

Yes he's been a great help. I hate to see this one go being the last of its kind. I'll check into a bit more.

Note that most training manuals dont show everything. It would help
to get a copy of the service manual, any CTC203-## should work.
Even just the vert area. At that point you can decide weather to
troubleshoot or shotgun.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

Should I just go ahead and order the ic?

Where do I order the ic?