1956 8" Rca 8-pt-7014
 

Just about to start recapping this. The set is complete, with all the knobs, CRT tests good. Not the easiest chassis to work on though...

Keep us posted on this one Adam as i have two of them to do. I just want to see what kind of problems and adaptations you run into so i'll know what to expect. I've seen restored ones play and they do perform nicely. Its amazing how RCA was able to build a transformer style set into such a small package.
-Tony

Cute set, but finicky to work on. See this page for a case study:

http://antiqueradio.org/rca16.htm

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html

Adam, you're aware that the chassis unfolds right?

Also something to watch out for is the metal cover over the neck of the CRT, the Ion trap is so sensitive on this one that it may not work without the cover in place!
Because of this I spent quite a bit of time trying to figure out why I had no raster on the first one I did.

[QUOTE=Phil Nelson;1253508]Cute set, but finicky to work on. See this page for a case study:

http://antiqueradio.org/rca16.htm

That cleared up some stuff, I have the same differences with the schematic here, I was wondering about that 6CG7 / 6CM7 vertical oscillator tube, I looked them up and saw they couldn't interchange, and figured I would have to try them both, now I know to stay with the 6CM7 that's in the set. I had to clean all that wax out of the HV rectifier socket on mine too.

[QUOTE=Eric H;1253515]Adam, you're aware that the chassis unfolds right?

I've pulled it further apart, but decided not to pull it completely off of the crt, because of the strange way the yoke is held on with just a wire twisted over it rather than some kind of clamp I can loosen, I'd rather not have to mess with undoing it.

Good to know this set has an ion trap, I didn't even see it in there.

Many of the tubes were original, I put them all on the tester, and they all tested good except for the 6AW8 which showed a short.

As for problems I'm expecting to run into, I have yet to try to fit the extra electrolytics replacing the ones from that big can in there, not going to be too much room, I'm also going to swap that selenium rectifier for a diode, it tests ok, but I've seen lots of them go bad, but I'm going to leave it in there because I like the way they look, and that cardboard for adjusting the ion trap is already falling apart on this set.

I have one of these sets and I ended up dissassembling it almost completely to get to everything. It is a very cramped chassis but an attractive and well made set. I think it is of much better quality than the comparable G.E. sets of the era. Take your time with it. It will be worth it.

There must be something wrong with me. Today, by coincidence, the postman delivered another one of these, same color as my first one.

Not working, as advertised, and it smells like a barn, but it has a better cabinet than my first, the cute leg stand, and an unbroken rear antenna. Maybe I will put the restored chassis into the better cabinet and offer the unrestored not-so-good one to someone else as a project.

Incidentally, you can recap these by sliding the two sub-chassis apart. No need to completely disassemble them.

Phil Nelson

Finished the recap, but still needs work. You can't tell from that pic below, but it actually does get a good picture, just won't sync, horiz. or vert., also no sound. The schematic I have (sams 336-14) is so different, I don't trust the voltage and resistance readings given on it, anyone have a better one?

Adam, try this one:

http://www.vintagetvsets.com/schem/kcs100.pdf

That looks like it, thanks for the schematic.
I was thinking about this last night, the problem is not that the horiz and vert oscillators are off of the correct frequency, I can adjust both hold controls so the picture stops moving for just an instant, and even further so the picture appears to move or tilt in the other direction. The picture just wont lock in, either horizontally or vertically, so I'm thinking the problem isn't necessarily something to do with the horizontal or vertical circuits, maybe something back behind them around the sync seperator. But I don't have time to work on it now, I'll check it out later tonight.

...

Phil,I might be interested in the unrestored one with the bad cabinet, as mine is covered in gloppy paint and the chassis is real rusty. Let me know if you decide to get rid of it.

The problem turned out to be a broken wire connecting up the 110v supply, which feeds both the sync amp and the sound IF.

Mostly back together now, I have to clean all this sticky goo off the cabinet first before I put it back on, so I'll do that tomarrow. Some more pics...

I fell in love w/these little guys when I was at McCallie; the dean of students, Houston Patterson, had one in his office. Mr Pat was a man of many interests, and for him to have what was, at that time, just an old junky TV, was completely in character. He could have easily had a new Sony or Panasonic, but that's just how he was...