Early Chromacolor II, $22 on craigslist
 

http://detroit.craigslist.org/ele/510660724.html

http://images.craigslist.org/0101100...4f88007c2d.jpg

Sorry, thought I was on the swap board...:no:

Nice,

Thats my favorite chorma II. Ive run into a few just like it over the years but for some reason I kept giving them away. Probably because I didnt take much interest in solid state sets then, but I do now. Id like to find one and keep it for good.

BTW, Chris, thanks for your offer on picking up the zenith, but I dont have anyone available to get it to buffalo in time. I appriciate it very much though. Im still working on other methods as to getting it over here.

That too is my favorite Chromacolor II and they used to be common as dirt when I was a teenager in the early to mid '90's. Most of the ones I found were easy to repair and had great pictures. I found one about a year ago (19HC48, 10/76) for $10. It works; but, I've still got to do some work on it to get it just right. Sometimes, the picture gets very dim. A slap on the case may restore it for 10 minutes or 2 weeks. I cleaned all the switches & controls as well as resoldered and reseated the modules. I thought I had it fixed; but, it started doing it again and I have not had a chance to go back into it. I need to move it into the house so I can see what kind of reaction I get from the cable guy when he comes to hook me up Thursday! It's strange that these sets went from being common to hard-to-find almost overnight.

I have a set that looks similar to this but it has several tubes in it with insta-view. The name on it is Sears. I'm wondering if my set is an earlier Zenith made for Sears.

I don't think Zenith ever made a TV for Sears. Your set could have been made by Warwick, Sanyo, Toshiba, or Wells-Gardner. Those were the companies that made most Sears TV's back then. I think the first three digits of the model number (ex: 528.xxxxxx) is a code as to who made it.

Thats the exact same set like one I had. A guy gave it to me. It worked at first. Then I turned it on and I heard a loud pop and the picture went out. The tripler and that capacitor blew and ruined the picture tube. I tossed that tube and cabinet but I saved the chassis and controls.
John

A reminder that if any of these sets are found; the back should be removed so the safety cap can be inspected before operating the set. If it's an orange cap, you're OK. If it's a white cap, it needs to be updated to the orange cap before the set is operated. Those white caps are a bomb waiting to explode and will cause the HV to run very high and it will take out the CRT and maybe other parts. I think the white cap was used in E and F lines. I think the problem was fixed in later models.

I was unaware of anything like that at the time. I learned about it on here afterwards. I had another set just like it offered to me later on but I passed on it. The cord had already been cut off.
John