got a RCA table top
 

wood with what looks like about a 10" screen. Cabinet is bad, but knobs are there and the chassis looks ok, will post pic later. looks to be a late 40's set

has a 10BP4 test VERY strong.

here is the chassis out fo the cabinet. The cab is eaten up with termites, not sure what I will do. I think for starters I will replace any papers, then check to B+ and if not shorted go for a slow power up with the HOT pulled out. see how the can caps do (I think they were replaced, dont seem original, but done a while ago with twist locks).

Dave, you seem to be a magnet to sets with bugs!

Looks just like the chassis in my RCA 8T241.
Is your fine tuning belt gone? There's a discussion over here on replacing it.

yea got it from the same place I got the CTC16 whole place was infested, yuk.

I will check on the fine tune. I think the tuner has issues, while the VHF part turns there is no notiable detents so either it is supposed to be that way or is gunked up something bad.

The yoke looked a little cooked, I hope it is ok. Its going to be a while before I get to this on, depending on how the CTC16 goes.

I haven't any idea how this happens, but I've seen several RCA tuners which have lost their detent ball. It's never found in the tuner housing, but it's not hard to replace. And once you find the proper size, it never falls out again.

Really !

Pallophotophone

thx, I will check it out

hmmm while waiting for a part on the CTC 16 I took a look under the chassis of this one. there was a can coil just hanging on by its leads. Looks recent. there was anohter can still mounted with no leads attached, looks the same, that was mounted on the side of the chassis with access to a tuning slug.

the replacent can had a tuning screw that stuck out about 3/4 inch, my guess is it would prevent the chassis from sliding back in the cabient (the oher had a slotted slug that did not stick out). So rather than deal with the issue they prior repair was to just let it hang, geez.

I went ahead and took the old unused can out and mounted the replacement (wires still attached) where it belongs. If I get it running I will deal with how to make it fit back in the cabinet. At least I will not worry about the dangling part shorting somewhere. Just for grins I check the continuity of the old part, seem like it was ok.

I have been thinking about what to do with this set, I am leaning toward just building a nice wood base with some rubber feet, with a CRT support on it and leaving it all exposed. The wood is pretty far gone (I will keep it and all the bezels etc. incase I decide to try and reproduce or if I find another cabinet that is not as bad and can use parts of the cabinet that are not too far gone. its got a nice square footprint, and everything is on one chassis save the front the supprt of the crt.

I love the tank like build of this, and like to see the tubes glow. I am assuming I am not the 1st to condsider this, was wondering if anybody else has done it and could share a pic to give me some inspiration.

Maybe consider making (or having made) a plexiglass case for it, so you can see it but unknowing folks won't get zapped.

Reece

This guy made a Plexiglas case for his PilotTV-37.

http://www.electronixandmore.com/tel...lot/index.html

Except for the Radio Craftsman with chrome chassis, most TV chassis don't look that hot on their own. Lots of gray unshine-able metal.

http://earlytelevision.org/radio_craftsman.html

A Plexiglas case would be preferable to leaving it naked, for obvious reasons (can you spell l-a-w-s-u-i-t ?).

Phil

chassis is not that pretty on mine, no rust except for a couple small spots, just the normal gray.

Yea I am aware of the lialbility, There would be limited acces to it, talk about an attractive nuisance..:yes:

did a few prelim checks, primary 1.8 ohms, B+ load about 6k (ground to cathode of the 5U4). did not get a chance to check secondary winding (forgot). The PT looks/smells ok. Will start by replacing the dozen or so paper caps and tube electros. its had some work, new vert block xformer, newish cans caps, some orange drops. Still a bunch of black beauties, bumble bees and the wax caps. After the caps a check of the tubes (main worry will be shorts). its a 8t-241 I have the Sams. Will pull the HOT and the VOT and do a slow power up on the variac while checking the B+ volt and current. check the cans for heat, if that goes well then all tubes will be replaced and will do a fast variac startup.

Does a 10BP4 use a ion trap? it had one sitting on the chassis, not connected to the picture tube.

If the CRT had been replaced using an aluminized CRT, the ion trap would not be needed. Not sure if there was an aluminzed version of the 10BP4. Look and see if there's a date code on the CRT. If it has the original tube, it likely needs that ion trap.