1B3GT Socket
 

I have to replace the 1B3GT tube socket in my Crosley 9-403m. Can I replace this socket with any 8pin octal socket as long as it mounts to the ceramic posts? I found a HV socket with a corona ring that would fit but I'm not sure I need to go that route.

Thanks

Chris

You should be ok, but if there are any un-used/omitted pins on the original socket then just configure (remove) the pins on new socket to make it the same.
Or are we talking wafer socket? Then just replace it as original as possible.

The original is a wafer socket that has four pins. Is there a trick to removing the extra pins?

What's wrong with the one in there?

For HV rectifiers, I would only replace it with the correct type. Otherwise you risk carbon tracing, which could cause a short, and ozone production if it's near anything grounded. I was able to replace all the HV wiring inside the cage of my Philco (uses 1X2's in doubler mode), but it's tight on the smaller sockets.

Oh boy...I looked at my collection of wafer sockets to try to figure that out too and unless you can remove the rivets that hold that wafers together and have a tiny little rivet gun to put it back together with..(Yea Right!)

The only other handy TV I have at the moment is a Philco Predicta and it has all the pins on the socket but the unused ones are bent inward...Hmmm..

You may just have to bend them away, even cutting off the terminal ends would create a sharp edge that could create an arcing/corona problem.

But, some wafer style sockets depending on how they're made may have the terminal ends spaced differently. Find one with the most outward spacing and bend the unused terminals outward.

Or, at least with a ceramic socket you could remove the unused pins!

Maybe a dab of epoxy carefully placed (to avoid getting it on the contacts) would do it, to hold it together after you have it apart. Maybe you need to remove only one of two rivets, and swing the top surface sideways to let you remove the undesired contacts? Once you mount the socket into the set, that may do all the holding the socket together necessary.

My original problem started while bench testing the unit after recapping. I had it on for about an hour and went up to check on it, I noticed the dreaded burnt smell and had no raster, I also noticed a sizzling noise, when I looked in the the HV cage I noticed a blue arc. The anode wire was arcing at the 1B3/flyback terminal. It had also been arcing at the 1B3 tube socket, so the socket and the anode was toast.

I did consider splittling the wafer and even did so on a bad socket, I think this would work if you could come up with a good way to put it back together, perhaps the epoxy might be worth a try.

I ended up removing a socket from a spare parts chassis I had laying around, this had 8 terminals on the bottom, after some head scratching I ended up just bending the unwanted terminals back and forth until they broke, and they broke inside the socket so nothing was sticking out. So that was an easy soloution. I desoldered everything, replaced the socket installed a new anode wire and fired it up.......No smoke, good picture and everything at the moment is working great.

Check out the pic's.

I love those easy solutions. I bet a couple of dabs of good two-part epoxy would hold the wafers together if you tried the splitting solution. Save that trick for next time.

Nice looking chassis -- and screen image!

Phil Nelson

The original anode lead, in the first photo, appears to be RG-172/U coaxial cable. That may have been the cause of your original problem.

Regards,