Deoxit residue
 

I just remembered why I don't like using this stuff on front panel mounted controls. :no:

I've been rebuilding this B&K 1076... Three nights ago I gave each of the pots and switches a very small squirt of Deoxit DP5. This stuff takes forever to evaporate, and it continues to creep out of the control openings and onto the faceplate. Probably won't hurt anything, but it sure looks messy. I can clean it all up with Windex, and then in about 30 minutes it's right back. It spreads out like crazy. :scratch2:

Kevin

Several cleanup attempts later...I gotta say this stuff has great penetrating qualities. I may end up taking this outside and hose the controls out with some degreaser. But I need to be carful not to mess up the painted front panel. The weird thing is I can't see any of this residue on the back side. It seems to like to crawl out the front openings.

Kevin

Bummer. I've been using D5S-6 lately. It goes all over too, but evaporates quickly.

This says DP5 on the can, it's the non-aerosol pumper. I got it from New Sensor, supposedly for amp controls/switches. Is says right on the can that it contains hydrocarbon oil. I know right now I won't be spraying it on anyone's vintage Fender or Fisher amp controls. Obviously the wrong stuff for the job. What a yucky mess. I'm gonna take this outside and try hosing it with a can of heavy duty electrical degreaser.

Kevin

Could always cover the rest of the panel for a nice even "waxed" look.

-J

after degreasing would it be a good idea to put a micro amount on the parts that rub instead of dry with no lube?

I seriously thought I was using a micro amount. It's a pump spray can, so I had very good control over application.

I think new switches and pots come with some type of thick grease on the moving parts. That helps dampen the movement and keeps the contacts from excessive wear and oxidization. So the problem becomse getting a grease back inside the working parts. You'd basically need to take the pots apart to properly re-grease them. OTOH, the reason for using the Deoxit was to remove years of built up oxidization from the contacts. But this stuff I got has way too much penetrating oil in it. It’s a no brainer that dumping oil all over will keep stuff from oxidizing further, but I was looking to remove what oxide was there, not flood the place. I'm going back to using my vintage can of Channel Master color contact cleaner.

CAIG does make something called fader lube, I have no idea how that works.

Kevin

Yeah, if I wanted to go for the glazed ham look. :D

Kevin

We had always preferred a product called Deoxit DN5. I think this was marketed for industrial use and was non-flammable. It seemed like it was about twice the price of the "flammable" version.
We tried the DP5 pump once but I didn't like it at all.
I think the version I have now is still non-flammable but it is a different formula than the classic DN5.

There is a competitor's product called TechSpray RidOx and it seems to have a good deoxidising effect but it is also a hydrocarbon-based product.

Also we have used a product which was called CaiLube MCL, this may now be called "DeOxit Fader Lube". It seemed to work well on slide controls.

One time someone told me that in potentiometers the biggest problem that causes noise is not necessarily oxidation but loss of lubrication...probably the best thing would be non-flammable deoxit to help remove oxidation followed by the CaiLube or FaderLube.