scrapping CFLs for usable caps and diodes
 

It's those compact florescent light bulbs. I took a dead one apart, and found 2 15μF 250V 105C caps, and 4 1N4007 diodes. And a few assorted resistors. Yes, these caps can lead a hard life, so test them before using them in a radio. But this particular bulb appears to have had an open filament, which would make it dead. And these caps tested fine. As well as the diodes. They sell for a couple dollars or less, and it might be reasonable to get a few just to tear apart for the caps (you know how it goes, you're restoring a radio and don't have the caps like the ones I found. And you don't want to wait on mail order).

I like the way you think Wa2ise.

I'm broke too much of the time, and have a good eye type cap checker so if I can get dud bulbs for free from folks it could help move some stuff off of the back burner.

I just looked at some of the caps I salvaged from CFL's. The ones I scrapped were Philips brand. They had 33mfd @ 200 volts. I used three in the last AA5 I repaired. Two in parallel for the 50 side, one for the 30 side.

I have one apart it has
1 10uf at 200
1 .0022 at 1200v
1 .0039 at 1200v
1 .00051 at 1200v
2 .047 at 250v
5 1n4007
1 blue diode
1 switching transformer
1 choke
1 toroid
1 4.7 ohm fusable
2 transistor/fets
1 thermistor
5 surface mount resistors

I used a heat gun to heat the back of the board up and all the parts fell out. The electrolytic usually have long leads too.

How the *%#& do the make this for $3??

You will know when the parts you salvage go bad in a few years as Chinese junk likes to do. They could probably maintain better quality and reduce cost by building the base to last, and making the spiral flourescent tube easily replacible by the consumer.

Another way they make it cheaper is to use chinese parts which are just as toxic as the flourescent tube (The tube won't work without mercury). And to think were are replacing Cheap, pleasant, NON-TOXIC incandescent bulbs for this erie, hazmat just to save a few watts. I wonder how much worse dammage the polution from these CFL bulbs will be compared to the carbon emmissions they save over incandescent? :?

When I was visiting friends in CT we stopped by the home depot... imagine my surprise when I saw 5 packs for $1! I left with a trunk full of 13w CFLs. Power companies in CT subsidize the cost.

-Jason

Edison does that here too. A 5 pac for $7 or so but they are only $12 for 5 regular price.
I understand economy of scale but....really!

Looking at one now. What is the trick to dismemberment without shattering the glass and creating my own local hazmat?

The plastic base part is pop fit. Get a screwdriver in there and work it open.

Maybe they should get recapped and upgraded before using them, 600 volts caps, Orange Drops, more heat sinks.
Hot Rodding CFL's could be the next big hobby. :D

Some stubborn units need a little encouragement from a hacksaw blade cut right below the parting line... not necessarily all the way around, but just enough to get the separation started.

jr

Could probably melt your way through the plastic with a junk soldering iron, just do it outside and keep yourself up wind of the fumes (They Stiiiiiink and are probably bad for you if inhaled).

I've actually used a "60W" CFL electronic ballast to drive a 22W circiline florescent bulb. Seems this florescent bulb "looks" similar enough electrically to the ballast. Connect the circline bulb connector to where the old CFL bulb connected to, paying attention as to which of the 4 connections match as for the filaments and the pair on opposite ends of the bulb. Also works for thise old smaller florecent tube desk lamps. You'll have to rework the power switches on those, though.

Well,I have been using the "guts" from an an old CFL as a temporary fix
to my bench light."Temporary"for me means about a little over a year sofar:thmbsp:
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f.../cflhack01.jpg
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f.../cflhack02.jpg