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Admiral 16R12 restoration
Oh yes, it's another Admiral restoration project. This time it's not one of my sets though.
A friend dropped off a couple sets over the summer and asked that I restore them. They both use the 21B1 chassis. I swear once these are done I'm definitely going to work on some other brands for a while :yes: http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6012/5...4a94ff83_z.jpg First up is the 12R16 tabletop. http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6006/5...d2115f68_z.jpg http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6024/5...f3bef887_z.jpg http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6125/5...2eca7ac9_z.jpg It's filled with W. German resistors. http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6012/5...9e6e0d37_z.jpg The Silverama 17BP4B tests like new and all the transformers, yoke and flyback test good :) http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6099/6...93d03c9f_z.jpg I found a 14 Amp fuse in the HV cage - it should be 1/4 Amp :nono: http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6212/6...242ae91c_z.jpg |
The first challenge was finding the correct schematic. At first I was using the scanned Riders vol 6 available from the ETF.
I quickly found differences though. For example there are 3 couplates in this set but none are shown in Riders. http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6104/6...8822a7fc_z.jpg Also, these power resistors differ from Riders and I found a germanium diode detector while Riders shows a 6AL5. http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6060/6...847f0bbc_z.jpg I did some research and it seems they made at least 22 production runs of this set :sigh: I discovered a faint 'RUN 14' stamped on the back and tracked it down in a Wallace Telaide. Here's an explanation of those power resistors. http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6226/6...67015034_z.jpg I restuffed the electrolytics and replaced most of the old caps and out of spec resistors. http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6057/6...33bcfffe_z.jpg http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6229/6...78d1f4b1_z.jpg The first power up treated me to some nice audio for about 5 seconds then silence and no raster or HV. I just started checking the tubes and found a 12AV7 in the 12AU7 socket. Also this "TEL-A-SAVE" 6AC7 video output tube has a cathode short and shows no emission on my Hickok. http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6042/6...961bb05c_z.jpg |
I found about 5 more bad tubes including the 6AV6 audio preamp. Replacing that solved the fading sound problem. Still no picture though but I do have about 14 KV.
Then I finally noticed that the single pole ion trap magnet is missing :withstpd: I scrounged one from another set and was treated to this mess :( That's with the brightness cranked all the way up. http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6050/6...0df301a3_z.jpg http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6110/6...1e43d328_z.jpg |
I tried a different ion trap magnet. Bingo :D Maybe the first one I tried is weak ?
A little twiddling of the Hor. Lock coil on the back finally got me a stable picture :banana: http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6050/6...cc5b898b_z.jpg http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6227/6...44afce2b_z.jpg Just in time to catch the Outer Limits :) http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6046/6...47a42a67_z.jpg http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6119/6...0d5093a9_z.jpg Very bright picture! http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6234/6...f76dc7d2_z.jpg There are some faint vertical lines on the left side. The set came with a 6AX4 installed in the 6W4 socket so maybe that's the cause. Or maybe the horizontal yoke cap. I'll try adjusting the Hor. Drive too. http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6224/6...5d209a44_z.jpg I'm glad I can sleep in late today :drool: |
Bandersen wrote: I swear once these are done I'm definitely going to work on some other brands for a while.
No you're not. :no: You're the Admiral go-to guy! :yes: Look at how nice a picture almost right away. |
This Admiral is going to come up really nice by the looks of things so far :yes:
And such a nice picture too. Is that a young Martin Sheen in one of those image shots? |
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Yes, that is indeed Martin Sheen :) |
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LOL We'll see :scratch2: I think I'll let you guys decide which set I work on next. |
Congratulation Mr. Admiral LOL :D
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That was the ORIGINAL "Outer Limits"-Can't remember the episode, ut the Oriental guy was James Shigeta.
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I replaced them right away with some modern power resistors.
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The terminals of that resistor in my sets are oxidized but still efficient, but I think I will put it in the list of things to replace..thank you for the info :)
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I've been using Vishay / Dale silicone coated power resistors lately like these: http://www.mouser.com/MobileCatalog.aspx?page=726
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