my panasonic ct36L11e CRT TV set died
 

It's a big CRT set, 32 inch screen. Just died. When I try to turn it on the relay clicks, and about 5 seconds it gives up and clicks off. No TV sound or picture (though the CRT would not have had time to warm up anyway). Without removing the power plug, subsequent attempts to turn it on do nothing. Pull the plug and reconnect some time later, I get the 5 seconds as above and it gives up.

Before it died, the horizontal width was getting narrower, about an inch of CRT screen on the right wasn't getting any image, aka, was black. Been like that for months.

This set weighs more than I do, I'd guess, and that would make getting the back off really hard.

If it's likely just a bad power supply cap, I could replace that. If the horizontal output stage died, that likely will make me give up on it. What part failure does this sound like?

TIA

Sounds like a cap in the horizontal circuit failed and it eventually took out the HOT.

Im so sorry buddy!!

We love our TVs like crazy.....I hope you can get her going again :)

Yup sounds like the HOT shorted. You have several other
hurdles if it is.
What caused it.
Did it damage the power supply.

Big sets are a pain to work on unless on a bench with
space & lots of light. Also Sams doesnt list it ( got a chassis ##?).
The only things I remember with newer Pannys was HOT's,
the usual PC cons at hoz drive transformer & pin diodes.
If you go further post a few chassis photos to familiarize
us & maybe we can help.

It may be time to put it down sorry to say. You can get these
at Good Will etc for next to nothing. Just try to get an
older one from a big maker. I would stay away from Zeniths,
& NAPs. Sets before the late 90s wont be rebadged Chinese
garbage, more likely the real thing........

73 Zeno:smoke:

Pincushion diodes and horizontal outputs were a problem on the CRT panasonics as well as power supply electrolytics and IC's.
Also, look around the power relays. Bad connections are a problem there.
While you are in there, look over the caps around the vertical IC and the vertical IC connections. They were problematic.
Can you post a picture of the chassis.
Also, is it the Prism or the TAU set.
The TAU had CRT troubles (went gassy quick) and power supply intermittants that was connections all over the circuit board.

It's this model ct 36L11e http://www.wa2ise.com/radios/p-ct36l11e.jpg Picture when we first got it.
I took a quick peek thru an opening at the chassis, the few big caps I can see don't look bulged. The back helps support the set, making it difficult to remove.

Not to worry. When you pull the back it will be a little more
front heavy so keep that in mind. Also if the speakers are on the back you gotta unplug them. Once off you can slide back the chassis &
do some checking. Zenith 26kc20 pointed out some other common
problems. Even if they are not the cause they should be checked
along with a good looking over for PC cons & swollen or discolored
caps. With the back off its also easy to move. Just hug the set
from the front & grab the edges to move. Just watch the neck!
Putting the back on agn you have to line things up but most the
time they fall nicely into place. Sometimes you may need a
second helper to tip the set a little.

good luck Zeno:smoke:

I opened the back and pulled the circuit board. AFAICT, the HOT transistor isn't shorted, at least from emitter to collector. I measure 40 ohms both ways from emitter to base, after I pulled two wire jumpers that disconnect the emitter and the base from the rest of the circuit.. It's a 2SC5339 and I looked up the data sheet on line and it turns out it has a built in 45 ohm resistor between these points, so maybe it's not blown..

No cap looks by sight to be spilling its guts. And I tried resoldering the horiz output transformer terminals on the board, but the set still shuts down in a few seconds, as before.

A sticker on the HOT heatsink says: "serial number LE20210034 GP342". Other than that, I don't see any identifications.

GP342 is prob the chassis # G342 is also shown on the label
on the tuner. Still no joy on a Sams. I know this was used in
27" + sets. Monday I will comb through my Sams & see if I
can come up with a similar chassis. I have done them & there
was something abt the power supply I just cant remember.
Also note the vert looks like its been running hot. See
discolored board in front of FBT near TAC switches.

For now the HOT is good. 99.9% of failures is total short E-C-B.
1) with it still out be sure there is no short on the PCB E-C.
2) put the HOT back in. Hang a meter in on HOT E-C DCV.
turn set on & see if the V comes up to 130 +- before
shutting down.
This will tell a lot, let us know & we will take it from there.......

73 Zeno:smoke:

Somebody he manual up on ScribD:

http://www.scribd.com/doc/45748723/CT-32D11

Some of those Panasonics had a mod kit for the HOT - if the 2SC5339 HOT is Q551 and is bad, you'd also change a couple of resistors. Seems like somewhere on the web would be a reference to it, but I'm having no luck.

Really a reliable chassis - usually we'd see them with the antenna connector pulled out or a lightning strike would get the set. Not too many in for other gripes.

Cheers,

Thanks all for your help, but it seems the flyback developed an internal short. So I'm gonna give up on this set and will scrap it for parts. :(

I understand your frusteration....

Its too bad you cant discover WHERE the short happend :(