Akai VT-110
 

Funny, JUST as I was coming in here to post this, the director commentary I'm listening to said he used one of these as a kid!

Anyhow, just got one with the camera, waiting for it to arrive! Looks good cosmetically but I think the power supply is missing. You guys got any tips on how to check this thing out and power it up after so long?

It does come with (I think) a proper video tape, but I really want to record some results of different audio tapes. How long can I do that before you would be cringing? Probably right away! Damn shame! Is there a way to slice VHS stock in half and use that? This is of course assuming I can get the thing to work in the first place.

Hi. Congrats on finding a good-looking VT-110 - is it the one that was on ebay lately?

Regarding tape, the only sound advice to give is to NOT use audio tape on these machines. Not a half-dozen, not one, none at all! It was a great temptation back then and a sure way to kill the heads - in fact that's precisely how many of them died prematurely. In fact I wouldn't even dare to play an audio tape with historical contents on it, unless I'm really really sure I'll never need this deck again - seriously! Slicing a VHS tape, or any tape for that matter, would be a royal pain and even if you manage to do it properly , it will not have the right thickness / oxide / length anyway. Try to find VT-5 tape if you actually want to record on this machine, or just use it as an interface to the camera and record on something else, these are the only ways to keep it alive.

If you still want to use it after all that I've just said ;) the first thing to check is the video heads. With a x10 magnifier and a Maglite in lateral lighting, check the condition of the head gaps: hardly is as much as they should be visible. If they look widened or irregular, let alone broken, you can forget about this machine as a recorder or player, it has died from being used with audio tape or cleaned with the heads spinning - another common mistake. They can still be worn out even if they look good, but chances are much better. The second thing to check is everything made of rubber: pinch roller, rubberized rollers, belts, all these are probably worn out or degraded. Belts can be changed (mind the dimensions, they matter a lot), rollers can be remade by Terry Witt at a cost. Then come all the usual lubrication and dirt issues (I've been lucky with mine), and finally the condition of the other parts.

Powering is done on 12 volts DC via a 5-pin DIN connector, poitive to pin 2, ground to pin 1 - forget about charging the battery, they're all dead now. If one is in the recorder, remove it to avoid leaks.

Several important parts are hardly serviceable now, but many others can be checked ad/or fixed with the help of the service manual - for sale in PDF on the 'net. It is a good idea to get one if you are seriously considering taking care of this deck.

I have 2 of these from a friend.Finding somebody that wants to share the manuals has been a pain in a butt .

As I was reading on some other sites and forums.They said dont use regular audio grade reel to reel tapes as mention here.They say it will ruin the heads.

Akai has special tape made for these machines.

Yeah, I guess that was the auction you saw! Got it yesterday. Seller did a pretty lousy packing job but I guess it's ok.

http://imgur.com/yQTBtZb

So where do I get replacement rubber parts? Some of them were liquified. Thankfully it didn't get too messy.

http://imgur.com/JluslpC

These pictures a pretty good considering I don't have a macro lens or tripod handy

http://imgur.com/t7flf0t
http://imgur.com/GG39ggr

What battery terminals should I use since I don't have a DIN connector right now? Where's the video in/out? Never mind, I found a bunch of stuff I should read/watch first. If there are electronic problems this thing may have to go on the back burner for a long time while I learn my stuff better!

Let's cross fingers ;)

Many stores selling belts for fixing old VCRs, or o-rings, can provide them. For example here is where I bought mine: Electronique-diffusion. They just happen to be located less than 10 km from me.

For the sizes, you will need the service manual available on the internet. Apparently one of the rubberized wheels next to the right reel table is in very sorry shape too, you will need to have it remade it you want to use that machine. I may be able to tell you the diameters by measuring them on my own Akai (hoping it's the same, mine is a VT-120 so there may be differences).

Note that, if your plans are to play or record tapes on a table top, you can probably make do using an external recorder as tape holder. I did it with a Nagra the first few times: make sure the tape is at the correct height on the audio recorder, wrap it on the tape path of the VT-110 as indicated and back to the audio recorder's take-up reel, switch the latter to play, then start playing with the Akai. It worked well for me.

Thanks for the pictures. It's difficult to see the condition of the heads from what I see, but at least they don't look broken. If you can have a really close look on that black hole at the centre of the head in lateral light, you may be able to see a very thin vertical white line in the middle of it, which is the head gap, and get a better idea of its condition.

I would advise using the DIN connector anyway. You could solder a wire to the battery terminals, or press it with plastic foam and gaffer tape, but it would be messy and pretty unreliable.

DIN connector not here yet! I can use the battery terminals easy if you can tell me +/-. Would work well with gator clips for now.
Should I power up the motors without oiling them?
What are the a/v in/out pinouts?

If you're referring to this trick, I might try it!
http://youtu.be/0UpuxWH46ug

Hope I have this much luck.
http://youtu.be/SGVLD2-DmjI

Also, the camera, without name plates, seems to be the 115 model for some reason.

Hi Lutello,

I see that you need the service manual for your VT-110 :) I have not found it for free, but googling "Akai VT-110 service manual" should bring up a few sites that sell service manuals. Just FYI I found the manual for my VT-120 on manualscenter.com, I think they have the manual for the VTS-110 which is the VT-110 set with camera and power supply. No affiliation, I just happen to have bought a manual from them.


I don't know for sure, it's not shown in the manualsand there is no marking.

The motors on mine did not need oiling, and I don't think you can open them anyway. Give them a running test, and if they are noisy think about what you can do - but even if they're completely dry thay will not die of running for a few seconds.

Video Ground = D
Video Out = F
Audo Ground = H
Audio Out = J

Yes, it is the trick I used :thmbsp:

Let's hope so!

It's easy to tell, the VC115 is the version with an electronic viewfinder and a C mount lens. Both cameras were compatible and I remember seeing VT-110 ads with a VC-115 camera. That's a good find ;)

DIN hasn't arrived yet but I can use the one from this old keyboard!

Camera shows blank picture on monitor and viewfinder.

Pretty damn happy to see a recognizable picture from the tape!
http://imgur.com/pSySXjL
http://youtu.be/NEkbWfWppWI

That a/v port is a pain in the butt without the connector but I got it connected to my MPEG2 capture device.
http://youtu.be/XDjc7t53VlY
I used my finger for the takeup for now. Not sure about the rolling problem but it otherwise seemed to work ok after a while.
Shipped from Arizona and this video seems appropriate! What's up with the viewfinder look?
Couldn't get any sound from the monitor or when I tried the tape on an audio deck. (if it lines up to begin with.)
Where are the a/v input pins?
Ready to find out what I need for the belts, heard I might have to send these in.
http://imgur.com/Mu2cLci

You seem to have a deck with good heads as they try to play. Your finger takeup is the reason for the lack of a good tape lock. You need the takeup reel to be constant in speed and your finger is not that. The capstan does most of the work but the takeup reel finishes the speed. Belts or rollers underneath will fix that.

The camera E/E with the deck stopped (camera in...camera out through the deck) is a different problem and the camera may be toast or needing adjustments. I have two of these cameras and they are tired after 40 years.

Playing the tape on an audio deck is apples to oranges. Nothing will play on an audio deck. I forget the position of the audio track on these but it would be slim if it was a longitudinal track aside from the slant-track (helical) video and be almost invisible to a reel-to-reel player.

Hmmm, there seems to be a misunderstanding here. We have never discussed playing the VT110 tape on an audio recorder. What has been discussed is using an audio recorder for its reel motors. OTOH I did play a VT-110 tape on a Revox once, as a last resort to slavage the audio track of a tape that had been recorded by mistake with the tape running on the wrong side of the capstan and as a result the speed was way off and unstable too. With a 2-track player it is possible to play the sound on track 2 and the CTL on track 1 - very convenient to recover the speed information. The video signal is too high in frequency for an audio player to read it, so it's just not on the signal. On a stereo 4-track deck the sound is on track 4, so it won't be playable. You can still read CTL on track on track 1, or you can flip the tape and play the audio in reverse on track 1.

I agree that the rolling image problem is probably due to the missing take-up torque (dead belt and/or roller is an obvious explanation). Placing the take-up reel on an external recorder in play mode, just to give torque, should improve things a lot.

Yes, definitely dead rubber on those rollers, by the sight of your last photo. You need to have them remade, or salvage some from another deck, if you want that transport to work again. It was to be expected.

I understood what you meant! At least I know the heads and electronics will give me a picture. I was trying to see if I could find a soundtrack and get what I could of a video "sound" on an audio deck for my super nerdy glitch art project! Maybe I'll try the two deck experiment now but I'm ready to get the parts!

Can you help me with a list of part sized or do I have to look them up somewhere? Think I have an old book that lists this stuff but it's not here! Also, what was that about professional rebuilding just for tires? https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...m3RP79FY#t=593

Also really need to know the AV INputs even if the camera worked! I assume they're in the same place as the outputs. Labguy says paperclips are good but he didn't list the input pins for the 110.

Hi Lutello, I think you do need the service manual for your machine. You will find the answers to all your questions there - and most probably to questions you will have as you move forward into the job.

As regards the dimensions and roller diameters, and if they are not given in the service manual (they are for most belts) it is best to check yours with a calliper, if the shape is still ok and they haven't turned to goo. If it's not possible ask me and I'll measure them on my VT-120, but I cannot be 100% certain that they are exactly the same on both models.

For fixing the rubber rollers, send a mail to Terry. to describe yours and request a quote. If memory serves it will cost you $35 for each roller, plus shipping to your country.

As regards the pinout of the video connector, here's what the VT-120 service manual says. Very probably the same on the VT-110:
H = audio ground (shield)
D = video ground (shield)
J = audio out
F = video out
E = audio in (line level)
B = video in
A = ground
C = +9V (monitor power)

Thanks!

$35 per roller though? Forgive my ignorance, but why can't you just slip them on?
Well I'll check my book next time I get a chance and eventually get to it!

You're welcome :yes:

You mean, slip the rubber on the roller? It's not the way these things are made. They would be loose, uneven in shape, and if a little traction is required the rubber would very quickly slip off. You need to have it grown on the metal in the first place, then cured and finally precision ground to circular shape, otherwise it won't work.