How do I remove the chassis from this Zenith radio?
 

I recently scored this late 60's Zenith tube radio. It is a model Z374L and is pretty dusty inside. The tubes are all original save one: an Amperex "orange globe" 17EW8 and all tested good on my tube tester. As you can see by the pics, it is very shiny, and I haven't even cleaned it yet!

Getting the chassis out is the problem. There is a brown wire and grey wire connecting the clock to the main AC power cord connector. Should I de-solder the wires at the clock or at the AC power cord connector?

I do whatever is easiest to get at. It looks like the motor leads should be unsoldered at the power interlock. You still have a lead from the chassis to the switch on the clock movement. I see it has a Westclox movement.
The knobs might be held captive to the cabinet, so they won't pull off completely.

yup, I saw that extra black wire going to the clock switch, I didn't mention it earlier because it is out of the picture. What about cutting the wires and using wire nuts to reattach...or is that not something that should be done? I understand that by 1969 Zenith was building these radios on the cheap, making them not as easy to service.

dieseljeep, do you still have one of these "Z" models? Mine has what appears to be wooden spacers between the chassis and the front of the case. All the date codes on the tubes (except the Amperex) are from mid-1967 or early 1968. (i.e. the 35C5 has "68-09" on it.)

You could use wire nuts but it wouldn't look very workmanlike in a radio. Easiest would be to cut and install mating insulated spade lugs (home centers, electrical dept.) or molex connector, etc.

I generally try to keep them original. I just looked at the last one I bought. It's a "J" model, which is a 1962 model year. I have others, I'll have to look.

For what's worth I have almost the identical Zenith AM-FM C/Radio; mine is a little earlier though; Chassis X374. I would just unsolder the wires from the clock motor, only 3 of them. Mine also has the wood blocks at the bottom corners of the cabinet. It's a queue'd project for the bench (needs the newly restuffed can electrolyic replaced and inside/out clean-up. Below is a pic of my restuffed cap ( now 330uF @ 200v and 470uF @ 180v). I use 3M aluminum body tape to re-wrap the can BTW; excellent strong stuff.

Tom (PK)