CRT swapping.
 

How swappable are CRTs in 80-90's CRTs? I seem to remember someone here saying most of the inline crts of the same size are swappable.

Electrically almost all are the same.
Physically there are often "no way" differences.
As a rule you can go by the EIA number on the tag. This usually tells
you who really made the tube. If you have a EIA of 343 its Zenith,
if 1101 Rauland div of zenith, 312 is Sylvania , 274 RCA etc.
Jap sets use either Jap or US tubes, usually the Jap jugs have no EIA #.

http://users.eastlink.ca/~mitchlane/EIA_Codes.html

Same mfg & vintage usually swaps. Beyond that best to query here
for advice.

73 Zeno:smoke:

What are these "no way" differences, aside from the obvious screen curvature differences in mid-80s and later sets? External or internal degaussing shield, does it really matter? Pin vs. spring contacts, can't the neck board from the donor set be used with some modifications?

...

To me a now way is making any changes, its the profit & keeping
things OEM that drives me. Things happen here that we would never
dream of such as removing cataracts. Keeping OEM is a CYA and
the pride of making it look factory. I almost never hung in filter caps,
ganged up resistors or caps, it looks like crap & reflects on me
& the shop. So in theory you can go beyond a physical problem also
but I have neither the skills or the motivation. I dont think
most here do either.

73 Zeno:smoke:

I would swap in the proper parts if I had them, but good luck finding an exact replacement for any post-roundie CRT. In your shop days these things could be had new. You're the one who said I might have to wire up 10 and 4.7 mfd caps in parallel to make up for an oddball 15, but fortunately 15s can be had through Mouser. Please don't make me sound like someone who would slam and fart-can a Honda. I don't have a lot of money to throw around like most people here so I do what I can to make things work.

Here's my entire cross reference data for post 19/23/25V CRTs. Hope this helps the current discussion.