Westinghouse H-196 restoration
 

I've decided to tackle the Westy 196 I picked up a few years ago.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8001/7...591e3998_c.jpg

I've since assembled a full set of knobs with some shown in this photo. They are the later plastic version rather than the metal, but they'll do.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8003/7...79b0c531_z.jpg

The cabinet is rough and the back is missing, but the chassis appears complete and untouched.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7112/7...8a15202b_z.jpg https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8646/1...df7c53a7_z.jpg https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8603/1...72fffe93_z.jpg https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8564/1...91bee13f_z.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8025/7...b7c75a19_z.jpg



CRT is dirty, but good :)
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7115/7...131c61f1_z.jpg

https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7786/1...3e1fbc97_c.jpg

Here's a closer look at the chassis up on the workbench. That long shaft is for the contrast control.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5465/1...bbb28dd8_b.jpg

Here's a few topside shots from different angles.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7702/1...0358f912_z.jpg https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8877/1...07f8624b_z.jpg https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7675/1...f6f50264_z.jpg https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8871/1...6ee841b8_z.jpg

After cleaning around the AC interlock, clipping out the AC line filter caps and pulling the rectifier tubes, I power it up. All the tubes lit and the unloaded secondary voltage is around 670 volts :thmbsp:

First up, I'm doing some cleaning and rust removal. Then, I'll dive into recapping.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7679/1...7b3c760c_c.jpg

Sunbury, PA - also home to moyers.....:scratch2:

I've got one of those awaiting restoration, the cabinet is really nice though.

I don't know if you noticed but that strip along the bottom front pulls off so you can reach the adjustments, I think I learned that by seeing one on eBay that was missing that strip.

670 volts! If the filters didn't blow with that much on them they may just be okay!

I think I learned about the control strip the same way :)

Oh that's across the whole secondary. Only half that from the center tap. Weird power supply with a 5V4 for the B+ and a 5U4 for the B-.

They were really going out of their way to use as many miniature tubes as possible during a time when no small percentage of other sets had octal tubes in majority.

Looking forward to seeing the video series on this one.

That chassis reminds me of the Admirals I've seen you restore. Best of luck with this one.

I discovered the HV stuff comes out easily on it's own subchassis. Much easier to work on. The flyback looks like the same FLY-1 type used by Admiral, RCA, etc.

https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7765/1...f124b172_z.jpg https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7690/1...0c240d9a_z.jpg

It tests good but the wax coating is in crummy condition. S I took it apart and recoated. I've done it before and it's fairly easier to take apart and reassemble.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7703/1...973e51ca_z.jpg https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7793/1...ab141fbc_z.jpg

I used some microcrystalline wax that is harder and has a high melting tempo than beeswax.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7729/1...b73b1d6e_z.jpg https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5445/1...423fc10b_z.jpg

Found a charred 4.7K power resistor that measure about 2 K. I'm using little reddish 2W Vishay metal film resistors. I think they are less jarring than the bright blue types.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7743/1...0f61579f_z.jpg https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8893/1...341a3310_z.jpg

I've been finding a lot of discrepancies between my set and the service info. Sams seems to be for a later version and Riders is the early. Not sure where mine falls. It has some of the later production changes but not all.

Most confusing so far is the AGC. Schematic shows two AGC busses - one for the IF and one for the tuner. Mine is missing the two components circled on the right and the tuner ties into the IF AGC bus.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5453/1...9a3e753b_c.jpg

I investigated further by popping the cover off the tuner and found the components inside connected to that AGC bus slightly different. In particular R129 is 10K rather than 22K.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7719/1...607c37e2_z.jpg


It also uses a 6AG5 rather than the 6BH6 n the Sarkes Tarzian tuner.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5459/1...22719c8f_z.jpg

The tube chart notes this change too.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8157/7...f7c8058e_c.jpg

I'm finding more and more components that had one end clipped and soldered back in. I get the feeling someone did a lot of troubleshooting.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8851/1...63c411d1_c.jpg

Watched your videos on this set last night Bob. Great stuff. Leaned a ton watching you take apart the flyback for inspection and cleaning. GOOD STUFF!!!

Thanks! Glad you are enjoying it.

I hit a little snag yesterday with the last of the can caps I've been restuffing.
The schematic shows it as polarized (C105 & C106), but the actual cap is non-polarized. Had to place another parts order.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8769/1...30dd0356_c.jpg

I have a Westinghouse Telaide that shows two chassis shematics; H196 and H196 DX
Yours may be the latter as it shows a 6AG5 for RF amp.

Both schematics show a polarized 1000mf across V.cent and polarized 500mf V.cent tap to B+.

I thought I was the only one that was extremely anal about checking multiple literature and spending hours on trying to verify part locations and specs before working on a set. :D

Glad to know that I am not the only one! I think I spend more time on investigating chassis run changes and old repairs than I do on the actual restore work. :thmbsp:

Good catch. The H196-A (DX) is also covered in Sams 84-13. Anyone have a scanned copy ?

http://s.ecrater.com/stores/176587/5...c0_176587b.jpg