Trinitron KV-1326R not responding to power.
 

Picked up a trinitron kv-1326r. I plugged it into an outlet in their garage at the sale itself and it didn't power on, but, as I unplugged it, I heard a noise, like a click.

So now I'm home and it's just not functioning, no click anymore. I am hoping to get it working. Taking a look inside, it's very dusty but I see nothing visibly broken, missing, or melted.

Is there a way to troubleshoot? Maybe with a multimeter or something? I would love any advice, thank you all!

Sony’s will need a schematic for sure. Most designs have a low voltage power supply to start with but they often have derived supplies that run sweep,video, and sound from off the fly back transformer that is rectified. The older sets had an HV block that stepped up fly back voltage and rectified it for picture tube high voltage and focus voltage. It was usually red in color. They could crack and fail over time causing a carbon path to ground. Check the obvious things like poor solder connections and fuses. Others should chime in too, but without a schematic you’ll find it hard to get it going unless it’s something very obvious and simple. Older Sony’s from early ‘80’s had HV shutdown circuitry that would shut down the sweep if something failed or got out of wack. Good luck on your project.

Check the two fuses F601 and F602. Also, cap C614 off the 153 (3) power source.

That's the same thing my Sony kv1925r and it ended up being a capacitor shorted to ground after I replaced the cap the tv powered on and then the fly back blow a hole of case and smoke just powered out. I replaced the fly back and so far it has been working fine and is used almost everyday.

First thing is check the fuses if f602 checks open then I would test the horizontal output transistor to make sure it's not shorted if it is the fly back maybe tost. I don't know the chassis that set uses but sounds like it's similar to mine. Here is the service manual for this manual may not help but here it is https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Usb...w?usp=drivesdk if the link bothers any I will remove it.

It looks like I could do this, I remember taking it apart earlier and seeing that a lot of stuff is labeled so I'll look for everything required, thank you!

I worked on this exact model, and the horiz out was bad. After another one blew immediately I ordered the schematic and found out that there are 2 small resistors coming off of the width control which open, sending the hot into saturation. It was an interesting journey to find that out.