Air King Model 2207
 

Some of you might have noticed the Air King Model 2207 on ebay recently. I was the one who won that auction and was wondering if the Sams existed for it. I couldn't find it on Samswebsite, anyone know if there might be more letters that make up that model number? It's a live chassis set, has a #51 dial lamp and 5 tubes, with an AM RF coil and oscillator coil. I can see two regular electrolytics and one multicap electrolytic. Power cord was also replaced as well.

Thanks.

Jonathan

Probably too old for Sams (which started in 1946). The 2206 (1938) is online at Nostalgia Air - http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByM...4/M0000304.pdf

You can get an idea of the age from the tubes used - there's a list on my web site under "Tube Data Online" ... http://www.audiophool.cjb.net/Techno.html

Tom,

Thanks again for your help. I never realized Sams started around 1946 and I never thought of Nostalgia Air. :)

Thanks so much.

Jonathan

One thing I forgot to mention was that that it says "25 CYCLES" o0n the chassis. Does this mean it runs on 25Hz AC? Can it be powered with 60Hz AC?

Thanks.

Jonathan

Wow, the more I look at this guy the more I see what a hunk of crap it is. :) It does seem to use 25Hz AC, and it uses a ballast tube! This one is encased in glass. It's an energy waster. It's an M55HG. Also, it's a TRF set, and because of it runs on 25Hz power, it's electrolytics are meaty too. Some googling indicates it's a clone of a Silvertone 7213. Looking at the Silvertone schematic, it is. The Air King 2206 was the 50-60Hz model, which the Silvertone 7213 is it's clone (or visa versa). The Air King 2207 must be the 25Hz model. Should I replace the ballast tube with discreate resistors? Can I power it with 60Hz from the wall? Am I wasting my time with this set?

Thanks.

Jonathan

I guess it depends on how the cabinet looks (or can look if restored...)

Extra filtering for 25 Hz is no problem at 60... will be quieter. The ballast tube can be replaced with a 6.8 to 7.5 uF AC RATED capacitor or a diode (if there's a pilot light, the latter requires a bit more work to limit voltage) But if the ballast tube is good, use it for a little extra heat this winter...

The ballast tube is good, and it's one of the safer ones enclosed in glass, so I'll keep it for now. All is needed is a recapping and it just may play. I like TRF sets much better than superregenerative sets anyway. I'll keep you guys posted.

Thanks again.

Jonathan

What a coincidence - I purchased an Air King 2207 on eBay Dec. 12!

I've been searching for a schematic, as I thought I was mising a tube. Actually, I'm missing the ballast. The number (M55HG) is stamped on the chasis, but as the other numbers are on the respective sockets, I dismissed the number as a some random, possible production related number. I however, say nothing denoting 25 Hz operation. So, thanks for your help Johnathan.

Did you ever find a schematic? If not, and I'm successful, I'll let you know. I belong to a couple of antique radio clubs, so I'll start looking. In the meantime, I'll try to figure out the wiring and a way to replace the ballast (with either a capacitor, diode or BIG resistor), to get the required (apx) 60 volt drop.

While it may not be a superhet, some TRFs can be really hot, and they sound alot better.

I just picked up a Model 2206 (the 60 cycle/hz version) from an estate sale. It took only minimal recapping to get it working, and it performs surprisingly well for a simple TRF. Mine also uses a glass ballast, which doesn't seem to produce any more heat than the rectifier or output tube. The schematic is in Rider Volume IX, page 9-12.

David