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My set has the 6CG7/6CK4 combination. I have a schematic but it not a Sams and it is not for my exact model. However if I remember right the tubes are all the same which should make all or most of the specs and component values the same. It leaves out info on the remote chassis all together.
I mentioned somewhere before that I was skeptical about checking voltages on a chassis sitting on a bench with no crt. The only way I would feel safe would be to disable the HV to the CRT second anode. There is a proper way to do this and I think it is to remove the horizontal oscillator tube as opposed to just disconnecting the cap from the top of the tube. This is to avoid harming the flyback somehow I think. Is this correct? Also will a chassis operating with various things disconnected cause other harm to the set or give incorrect voltage measurements?
About the hum, the frequency is not effected at all by any vertical controls. Only the volume control or the "buzz" control effects the sound of the hum, not the frequency though.
About the remote chassis somehow causing trouble, I still wonder. There is a switch to cut the power to the remote chassis and use the set manually. You would think that IF the remote chassis was causing a problem opening that switch should isolate it and thus eliminate the problem. Still it is funny how they set up the thing so the power supply is disabled unless the remote chassis is plugged in. I guess if the set were NOT a remote set there would be some kind of jumper in that socket or no socket at all.
Thats it for today. Thanks a mill for the positive outlook on this set...
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