http://s28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...nt=badcaps.jpg (Little bastards)
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...ets/bottom.jpg (Status when I gave up)
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...ssets/cap1.jpg (Is this right?)
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...sets/caps3.jpg (More of my futile attempt)
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...sets/stuff.jpg (The stuff i bought - BTW, how do I link those two blue ones together, to equal the big cardboard can?)
Above are the pics of the laughable soldering effort i undertook earlier. I didn't get to use the desoldering tool because the g-damned solder wouldn't even MELT. The cap values all match and the guy at the electronics store said that I would be able to use the caps I bought as long as the values were correct.
I got a Weller adjustable temp, butane-powered soldering gun because it said it got up to 900F, the guy said it was eqivalent to a 60-80w. Was I lied to? I think it's kind of neat.. I don't like the idea of drawing huge amounts of house current.
To be honest, this is the first time I've tried something like this... but it's incredibly frustrating when solder won't melt, and when it does, it balls up and turns into a puff of smoke.
Any ideas/tips on how to solder components like this? I left the other bad Philco cap in there because (along with eyestrain) I was fed up with the whole thing, i felt like a fraud for even attempting to do this. I said "what the hell" and gave it a smoke test. none of my new caps got hot, there wasn't any smoke or smell... or sound. but the tubes light up
So it seems I installed the caps in the right "direction" but the problem may lie in the big cardboard can/remaining cap.