Quote:
Originally Posted by mrclassicman
If it is then try this, set everything else up on the tester for the tube you want to test. Then put the tube in the correct socket and then center the meter using this rheostat. When the meter is centered and the tube is warmed up press the test lever and read the meter. I do not see any reason they would have this adjustment made before the tube was installed. Terry
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Hi Terry, the method I mentioned is clearly stated on the tester. Plus I remeber using it quite a bit through the past 20 or more years. It was the last one in any store around here up till the day I brought it home in disrepair.
The instructions say to find your tube on the chart containing two settings only. The first setting being a rotary switch with ABCD or whatever on it. I'm fairly certain that is a filament voltage switch. The second setting is where you set the meter via the rheostat BEFORE the tube is inserted. The last thing you look at is the socket# and any footnotes. Pretty simple, and quick.
The way the tester is messed up the only way that you can see the rheostats effect is when the TEST button is mashed and the tube is inserted and warmed up. This is when you are not supposed to be moving the setting. The good thing is that by this fact alone I know that all major components are working. Something is stopping the rheostat from passing voltage when the button is not depressed. I think it is the test button its self. It is a rather complex multi connection slide switch that opens and closes several circuits at specific times. Kind of the heart of the tester it looks like...
Tonight I did some continuity and resistance checks on the rheostat to meter circuit. I found nothing odd or off value. I cleaned the switch with some cheap electronic parts cleaner and nothing changed. I can probably study how the switch works and do some continuity checks pretty easily. Maybe I'll come up with something......Don't know what else to do.
Ebay???