[jshorva65]

That 7.5-ohm resistor (R195) is actually a 10-watt "sandblock" resistor with its outer "block" removed leaving only the u-shaped core. This probably results in some derating of the resistor's spec from its 10-watts down to about 7. Scoring along the edges of where the potting material meets the block, clamping one side of the resistor body to the benchtop and then tapping the other side with a miniature hammer and chisel along the scoring will neatly split the "sandblock" and the "tapped" side will come off. Turn the resistoir around and repeat for the other side. I bought three 7.5-ohm 10-watt resistors. I cracked the core of the first one trying to split it, but the other two split nicely.

After soldering the resistor to its "plug" pins, I inserted it into the socket and connected the set to a Variac, a 4A slo-blo fuse and an AC ammeter and placed a #44 lamp in series with the 6CD6 plate connection as a plate current indicator. On this chassis, since the plate cap connector is uninsulated, I covered the cap connector with some heat shrink tubing. The line current rose smoothly as I raised the voltage and the speaker emitted the familiar inter-station noise indicating the presence of B+ and at least a semi-functional audio section. Shortly after that, I heard the familiar sound of vertical sweep. The brightness of the #44 lamp indicated that the 6CD6 plate current was above normal but not dangerously high. I did not see the raster in the mirror or hear the faint high-voltage "crackling" or the typical sound of horizontal sweep, but I also didn't see a red-plate condition in the 6CD6 and the #44 lamp did not burn out. The output tube, although not glowing red, did seem to be heating up faster than normal, so I shut down the test. What I found was that the HV cage was warmer than I expected near the 6CD6 after only about 2 minutes of "on" time and the 6CD6 itself, although not dangerously hot, was warmer than expected. The "warmer than usual" condition without obvious, dangerous overheating evidence (red plate) indicates the horizontal drive is probably insufficient but not totally absent. The most common causes of insufficient drive that I have observed are low B+ caused by the very common "open doubler 'lytic" condition and attenuation of the drive pulse due to poorly-performing paper capacitors in the sweep circuits. Open doubler 'lytics typically increase the ripple content of the lowered B+ and cause noticeably-increased audio hum. The symptoms I observed are consistent with paper capacitor trouble and I'd need to get under the chassis to troubleshoot further, so my next move will be to remove the chassis and begin recapping.