Thread: That CTC-11...
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Old 11-27-2007, 11:43 AM
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jpdylon jpdylon is offline
<-- sucker for old sets.
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Knox County, Tennessee
Posts: 1,675
The sams should be able to point out the exact procedure for the cathode current, and some sets (I think the 16 chassis has it) have a jumper you remove to connect the ammeter between the jumper and ground. If you don't have the sams, disconnect the cathode lead from the HO tube at the socket and connect your meter between the cathode pin and the lead you just disconnected. THe tube has to be IN CIRCUIT and the set running to do this. If your DVM has a provision for measuring current in milliamperes it will do fine.
This procedure can be a pain if if the cabinet doesn't have a removable bottom, and its even better if you have a test jig so you can operate the chassis out of the cabinet.

Hv probes come up from time to time on ebay. I got my fluke for about 20 bucks shipped and it works well. YOu just need to make sure your meter has a high input impedance or it will cook, at least 1 meg ohm. YOu connect the meter to the probe, and the ground on the probe to the chassis. Carefully slip the probe under the cap and touch the HV lead. Adjust the HV control for hte proper voltage at minimum brightness.
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