Quote:
Originally Posted by blue_lateral
I would carefully box the tube, chassis, and cabinet in 3 separate boxes and send the whole mess on Greyhound. Best of luck however you do it.
John
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From personal experience of having been on the receiving end of a three-box-shipped 630TS arriving severely damaged (damage to Unobtainium tuner and speaker), I must say that a 630TS chassis must NEVER be shipped without the protection of its cabinet surrounding it. The ONLY exception to this rule is if the cabinet itself is not structurally sound. In such a case, a wooden crate must be built to surround and be bolted to the chassis to protect the very delicate structures which are mounted on the chassis.
With a structurally sound cabinet, packing the set exactly as shown in the Installation Manual is the ONLY safe way of shipping it. Never place loose packing material inside the cabinet, either, since fragments of packing material can become dislodged in transit and end up wrecking the speaker cone. Place small and fragile parts (knobs, etc.) in a well padded bag which is then tightly secured with rubber bands to the cabinet interior as shown in the Manual.
Regarding the rebuilding of electrolytics, here is a photo of how a restuffed C2 (C221 per RCA manual) should look.
Here is the latest photo of my Fada 799 after Sound IF, Video IF, and Oscillator alignment. Note here to always do a response check of each section before attempting alignment. If it's "way off" to start with, there is likely some other cause and realignment isn't likely to fix anything until that underlying trouble is corrected. One local channel's off-air picture, although reasonably good, is not as sharp as other local channels or as sharp as other 630-type sets have reproduced on that channel, so my next step is to look very closely at the RF and Converter response. My just-released "Angel Head Test Pattern" DVD produces an excellent picture on Ch 4, not quite excellent but adequate on Ch 3. The 5AXP4 test CRT is a real timesaver and worry-eliminator. I have a nice, strong 10BP4 safely stored in a custom-fitted carton for later use.
Regarding the B+ short in Jonathan's 630TS, have you ruled out pinched leads? I had one pesky 630-clone that kept blowing the B+ fuse I add during initial testing. It turned out that the last time it went to a repair shop (to be pronounced "dead due to CRT failure") the tech slapped it together sloppily and pinched the yellow lead from the speaker field coil between chassis and shielding. Of course, the B+ was a dead short to the chassis. In the third photo, note my use of a heatshrinked 5A fast-acting pigtail fuse (black tubing, lower left) and replacement of the old terminal strip with one having an "extra" lug. Also note the 1A fast-acting heatshrinked pigtail fuse (blue tubing, at 5U4 socket) and the 250mA PicoFuse (about the siz of a 1/4W resistor, under 5V4 socket). Probe with an ohmmeter and compare readings with the charts found in the service literature when tracking a short where applying power could endanger Unobtainium parts.