Welcome to AK! Also, welcome to the world of television collecting. Your basement will never be the same.
To get started, take the back off the set and look for a chassis number. The model number you have there is the model of the entire television - cabinet and all. You want to find the chassis number - which is the model number of the electronics. Then, go to
www.samswebsite.com and type the chassis number into their search box, to figure out which PhotoFact folder has information on your set. Once you know the PhotoFact number, go to your local library (the main branch) to the reference desk, and ask for "Sam's PhotoFact #xxx-x". Most larger libraries have archives of these things. If they have it, they'll get it for you - go photocopy it and you'll have the schematics and all sorts of other information, like test voltage readings and instructions on how to take the set apart. Also, another nice feature of PhotoFacts is that they actually have pictures of the underside of the chassis, the boards, etc - complete with labels for the components.
I would advise against simply plugging the set in to the wall to see if it works, unless you know that it was used recently. The problem is, that if you suddenly apply power after 20 years of sitting in a garage, it puts a lot of stress on components. Granted, you're going to replace most of these parts anyway, but you don't want one to blow and take out a vital part, like the power transformer.
You're going to probably want to build a dim bulb tester. This is a simple device that can be pieced together with some simple parts from the junk box and hardware store - it's basically just light bulb socket wired in series with a power outlet. This allows you to use a light bulb to limit the current flowing to the television. And it can detect shorted components (the bulb shouldn't light brightly and stay bright, if it does, something is shorted). A good reference is
www.antiqueradio.org - Phil has some wonderful beginner's articles, and covers the construction and use of a dim bulb tester. There are some caveats of using a dim bulb tester with a television, and I'm sure others can explain it better than I can. But read Phil's site.
Tell us a bit about yourself too. What kind of previous experiance do you have in electronics? Are you familliar with tubes, and tube based gear? Do you know the difference between electrolytic and regular capacitors? What tools do you have? Tubes are a lot different than solid state, and run on higher voltages (especially televisions! Be careful!). If this is your first step into tube gear, I would strongly suggest you start small, just to get the feel of it. Find a cheap plastic table radio/clock radio from the 50's-60's and recap it. It's a simple job, with less than a dozen capacitors to replace. (less than an hour when you get good at it). It'll give you practice working with this sort of gear, and be much easier to manipulate and get working. Another warning - a lot of tube stuff is hot chassis, meaning that the metal chassis is often connected to one leg of the AC mains. Televisions typically have power transformers (but not always) to eliminate this. Cheap radios don't - so just don't go poking around with fingers with the power on, a good habit to get into if you're going to work with tubes. Even cold chassis sets can deliver a nasty shock from the B+ supply.
I hope I haven't scared you off - It'll be a fair amount of work to learn, but it'll be a lot of fun. Trust me. And remember - we're here to help!
-Ian