That set you have for your first TV project actually looks like it will be a very good set to start on. It's a 50's set with a large all glass tube and a big metal chassis. The all glass tube is nice, because those have much better odds of still having their vacuum. The large metal chassis is a big plus, because it will be pretty easy to work on, comparitively, to some other sets. It will be cramped in places, but still, not too bad to work on. This set uses a power transformer, which is another nice thing - hot chassis sets are scary.
Now, I'm still reccomending you start with a radio first. But that should take a day or two. Then you can start on the TV.
First thing, you need to pull the chassis out of the set. To do this, remove the knobs on the front. If this set has a flip down door (doesn't appear to, but might), check in there for knobs too. They should just pull off, but check for setscrews first. Then, from inside, disconnect the yoke plug. The yoke is the big coil on the back of the picture tube - it deflects the electron beam magnetically to scan across the face of the tube. It's attached to the chassis with four wires, that should terminate in a plug. Some of the later, cheaper sets omitted this plug, requiring that you remove the yoke to take out the chassis. This one seems to have a plug. Disconnect the connector at the back of the picture tube. Do this CAREFULLY. The base of the picture tube might not be still attached to the glass, the glue dries out over time. Hold onto the base with one hand and gently pull the connector off with the other. Disconnect the high voltage lead from the side of the tube. Since this set has sat unplugged for decades, there's no danger. But to be on the safe side, get in the habit of discharging the tube any time you disconnect this wire. It's the big scary one that attaches to the right side of the tube with a suction cup. High voltage can be stored here because the tube acts like a big capacitor.
To discharge a picture tube, you should make a discharge tool. Get an inexpensive large flathead screwdriver with a long shaft and a fairly narrow driver end, and a good plastic handle. Then, take a length of lamp cord and bare both conductors on one end. You'll want to expose a few inches of copper. Twist the wires together and wrap them around the lower part of the screwdriver shaft tightly, making sure to get good electrical connection. You want to finish your wrap at the bottom of the shaft with a turn or two of the still insulated lamp cord. Wrap the shaft of the screwdriver in electrical tape, from top to bottom, leaving two inches or so on the driver end bare. Use a couple coats of tape. On the other end of the lamp cord, bare a short amount of wire (both conductors), and twist them togehter.
Now, a lot of people prefer to use a resistor to discharge tubes, and they're probably right. I never did, simply because I didn't know any better. Also, it's hard to find a suitable resistor, from what I hear. I still do it without a resistor, but I'm sure others will chime in with a proper value and type to use. I think a large power resistor of one meg or larger is what's good to use. I don't use the resistor... If you want to use a resistor, connect it here, to the end of the lamp cord.
Connect the other end of the lamp cord (or the other end of the resistor, if you used one) to a large alligator clip. Be sure to make good connections (solder, if possible). And wrap any exposed metal in plenty of tape.
To use the discharge tool, clip the alligator clip onto the metal chassis of the TV, and carefully slide the screwdriver under the suction cup until you feel the metal spring clip in the center. If you didn't use a resistor, you'll hear a nice loud SNAP if there was any high voltage stored. Without it, I don't think you will. Do this again, just to be sure.
To disconnect the anode lead, once it's discharged, squeeze the suction cup together at the top, and rock it free. You might need to peel it up to see the connection, but it's two little bits of springy metal that stick down into a hole in the tube, and clip in (kinda like the top of a christmas ornament). You just need to gently press these clips together and work them out.
Disconnect the speaker, noting the polarity if it doesn't have a convenient connector. (You are making notes here, right?). Check to make sure there isn't anything else connected, some cabinets have a built in antenna, etc. Under the wooden shelf that the chassis is resting on, there will be several bolts (probably 4). Remove these.
Now, you should be able to slide the chassis out the back of the set. Do it slowly, to be sure that nothing else is still connected, and that the mice haven't started to regroup. You're stealing their home, after all. Careful, it's heavier than it looks most of the time.
Once you've got the chassis out, you can clean the inside of the cabinet. Check for signs of leaked tar or wax under where the chassis was, and any signs of burning in the past.
Take the chassis and start cleaning it. Make a chart of all the tubes, and remove them. Watch out for the rectifier tube in the back, it's often held in with a springy clip that will constrict on the base when you pull it out. Hold this spring down to pull the tube out. Vacuum all the crud out of tube sockets, corners, etc, and clean everything real good. Careful not to damage coils, or get water into them. Don't polish the tubes with Windex. I know it'll make them shiny, but it will also take the numbers off. I've found that the best way to clean them is to run them under warm water for a bit, and gently wipe them on a cloth, like an old sock. You'll want to note the tube number first, in case it does wipe off. Depending on the tube manufacturer, the other non-number markings may come off. (GE tubes particularly). The number on GE tubes is put on with another kind of paint, and doesn't rub off as easily. If the number comes off, feel free to scrub and polish the tube all you want, then write the number back on with a sharpie. Avoid cleaning tubes unless it really needs it.
If you have a tube tester, test the tubes. Note any that are weak - but remember that in a TV, a weak tube might not actually cause problems. It's best to try the first test with the original tubes, provided that they're not broken, open, or totally dead. But put the tubes away for now, you need to turn your attention to the rest of the innerworkings.
Turn the chassis on it's side and look carefully for signs of damage, mouse-eating, burnt wires, missing parts, or Jimmy Hoffa. Carefully clean away any crud you find, compressed air and a clean paintbrush work well, and you can vacuum provided you're careful not to disturb anything. Figure out a way to get the chassis to stay up on it's side. Metal L brackets bolted to the original holes, clamping it to your workbench, whatever. You just don't want it to fall over when you're working on it.
Look at all those wax capacitors! You need to replace them all. Before you start, take digital pictures of the underside of the chassis. Close up ones too. You want to have a reference point just in case. Using the schematic as a guide, start replacing capacitors. Go slowly, take notes, and don't be sloppy. Clipping the old capacitor leads, bending the ends into hooks, and soldering new ones onto that is sloppy. You'll actually want to, wherever possible, actually desolder the leads of the old capacitor, properly attach the new one to the terminal strip, and resolder it. Clipping and tacking works, and you might get away with it in a radio, but it looks sloppy, creates more connections, is more prone to shorting, and ultimately makes the new capacitor rely on a 50 year old solder connection that may not have been that great, and an old oxidized capacitor lead.
To desolder, I like to use a desoldering pump. The blue one from Rat Shack (about 8 bucks) works well. Heat the connection with the iron, and flow new solder into it. This gets the solder melted and supplies it with fresh flux. Then, put the desoldering pump next to it and press the button. This takes practice - another reason to start on a small radio. You might have to do it a couple times, and even then you won't get everything perfectly clear. But once you can see the way the old capacitor lead was folded around, you can use your little needle nose pliers to gently unfold it, and straighten it enough to remove. Once you've gotten the old capacitor lead out of the terminal strip, clean the terminal up with the desoldering pump. Install the new capacitor like the old one was, use 'spaghetti tubing' or stripped off solid core wire insulation to insulate the leads if necessary, since the new one is smaller than the old one, there will be a large area of exposed wire - more prone to shorting in some areas. Try to only remove one cap at a time, but many times you'll need to take off three or four at a time in a TV, since there will be a couple tight together, or on the same lug of a terminal strip. This is another reason to start simple. But take notes, and you'll get it back together. Also, don't push or pull too much on a terminal strip, tube socket, whatever. Terminal strips are just bits of phenolic with metal tabs, and it's easy to break them if you're not careful. Be extra careful around coils - the open type are just wax dipped cardboard with wire, and the soldering iron can melt them. You might have to tack onto old leads here if you're not comfortable removing the old lead from the original tab. When resoldering the connection, always heat the terminal, not the solder - and flow the solder in, making sure it makes good electrical connection. Don't wiggle anything as the solder cools, this will create a cold solder joint. Wiggleing as the joint cools is, however, a great way to create a bad solder joint to make it easier to remove the old capacitor, however. A good connection will be shiny. Once again, you MUST use rosin core, lead/tin solder. Lead free solder is unsuitable for electronics, and acid core plumber's solder is a bad idea, for obvious reasons.
The electrolytics are another story. Here you have to get creative. The electrolytics are the big cans on the top of the chassis. New electrolytics are smaller, and look much different. Common practice is to disconnect the original electroltyics, and connect new ones under the chassis. You might have to install a terminal strip to mount them on. Make sure the electrolytics are installed the proper direction! They have polarity. The cans are multi-section electroltyics. That means that the can's outer casing (or outer terminal) is negative, and the inner pins are the positive sides of the capacitors in the can. The side of the can will list symbols (circle, triangle, etc) that correspond to the symbols stamped on the bottom of the can near the pins. The schematic will help a lot here.
Remember, replace only the paper capacitors, and the electrolytics. Leave ceramic disc capacitors and mica capacitors alone. See
http://www.antiqueradio.org/recap.htm for more information on capacitors.
Any time you have a terminal strip cleared out and have a resistor that's only connected on one end, check it with your meter. If it's out of spec (+/- 10% of the printed value) replace it. You can't really check resistors that are in circuit at both ends, because the rest of the stuff in the set will interfere with your readings. But don't go unsoldering every resistor - just do the ones that you run accross. Pay special attention to any resistors that are supposed to be 1meg or higher. They drift the most. Use proper rated replacement resistors. Most common resistors are 1/2 watt. The big suckers vary - check the schematic.
Have fun, and if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask!
-Ian