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I try to keep the leads dressed as original, if possible.
Another tool that's super useful when you have the tricky problems, is the oscilloscope. I find it right behind the multimeter as the most useful thing - it'll help you find problems - fast - once you know how to use it (not hard!).
For TV circuit theory and repair, look for a book written in the late 40's or early 50's - they were written for radio folks looking to get into TV, so they were simple and covered circuits in detail. Admirals were pretty simple and straightforward sets.
Another thing - be careful with the CRT. They break easy and they're pretty nasty when they do. NEVER hold one by the neck, or place it face down on a hard surface. I like to have an old bath towel folded up as a surface, and put it in a safe place. Not only does glass go everywhere when they break, but they're harder and harder to find these days.
And remember, a TV isn't magic! And the set you had worked at one time - so, if something's not going, sleep on it, ask questions, etc. You'll get it eventually.
I like to get the sweep going then the picture and tuner circuits. Often, you need the sweep for B+ boost anyway. Once you've confirmed the CRT 'lights' don't worry about yoke and ion trap adjustments too much, just enough to get a raster. You'll have to fine tune them in the set anyway.
Don't turn screws on transformers and coils unless you know what they do and you're 100% sure that's the right thing. Re aligning a TV set's tuner and IF is a royal pain and requires a bit of equipment...
Tubes 101: Plate higher voltage than cathode, grid lower voltage than cathode, screen almost voltage of plate, supressor same as the cathode. Blue glow ok, purple glow bad (unless it's an OA2), red plates bad, sparks really bad. Silver = vacuum, white haze = no vacuum.
Oh yeah, and stay out of the HV box while the set's on (and watch for the horizontal output plate cap!)
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