Quote:
Originally Posted by Arkay
I desolder and make sure the holes are clean, then solder in the replacement cap.
Only in the most inaccessable situations would I consider clipping and soldering to leads, even though it might be faster and easier to do so. Why put two solder joins in where you could have only one, especially when one of them is already old? I don't see any advantage or to or reason for that, except laziness.
Of course, this presupposes that one has the equipment (I use a professional resoldering station) and knowledge/practice to be able to do a decent desoldering and resoldering, but if not, then one shouldn't be playing around "under the hood", anyway. There is a slight risk of lifting/damaging traces, but this rarely occurs, and even if/when it does, repairs can be done. I'd rather take that very slight risk over the bigger risks of relying on old solder joints.
Others may do differently.
|
If you are talking about printed circuit boards we always completely remove the old components from the board, remove excess solder from the pad and resolder in the new component...on point to point wiring we usually use the end of the old capacitor lead to make the connection after thoroughly cleaning the old end and making a firm mechanical connection...if accessible we'll go directly to the socket or terminal strip if there is not too many items soldered to it.
We just worked on a Seeburg jukebox where someone just laid the new cap lead next to the old one and soldered, there was no mechanical connection at all...we re-did all these connections making sure there was a firm connection.