Quote:
Originally Posted by chipper
Thanks for all the info , I have followed your instructions pretty well. I am still having problems getting the blue dots to converge with the red and green. and I can tell this because in a good color picture I have horiz shading and below lettering I can see a blue shadow or ghost of the letters. I also have a purity problem in the upper left part of the screen, no matter where I move the red tabs on the purity ring. thanks chip
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Great advice so far. A few things I would reinforce though...
Always degauss the set. If you have to go back and degauss the set again. NEVER skip this.
Do it all with the set in the spot it is going to sit. If you have to pull it out from the wall (proably), make sure it is pointing the same way with regard to north-south that it will be sitting. The magnetic field of the earth hs an effect.
Do the purity first and get it right before going any further. Pull the yoke back and do the red ball routine Steve mentioned. Push it forward until the purity looks good. I think sets a set with a 21cyp22a will also have little magnets around the edge to help you get the edges perfect.
Now would be a good time to check the vertical linearity. You will want to set the overscan. The RCA generator you mentioned makes square crosshatch. Make perfect squares. Note that most roundies have no width adjustment. Thats why you want to check this while you are moving the yoke around. Set the yoke position for best purity, but be aware of the width. A roundie yoke should NEVER be all the way forward. It screws the putity up, and also there will be too much horizontal overscan. Checking at this point in the process will show you exactly why.
If purity gets messed up by the convergence adjustments, go ALL the way back and start over with degaussing and putity. Each time through the routine you will get closer.
Once you have purity, check the static convergence using a dot at the center of the screen. If you can't get this right, go no further until you find out why. Don't touch any purity adjustmments (rings, yoke position, etc). Keep the brightness and contrast kinda down. It's easier to see when the dots are fairly dark. Note that the red and green are done first, as their paths intersect. Once you have red and green right, the blue magnet moves the blue dot up and down, and the blue lateral moves the dot sideways. You should be able to land the blue dot right on top of the red and green.
If they wont line up, note the following things about convergence magnets. The white/clear plastic style magnets can be turned 180 degrees in their spring steel holders to get more range (the magnet end will still be pointed at the tube. The bar style can also be reversed. I think you just turn them upside down to get more range. If a bar style magnet gets turned 90 degrees in its holder, it will have much less effect as you move it in and out, and may fail to adjust.
Blue lateral magnets come in 3 styles. a cylindrical thing you turn, a bar magnet that moves in and out, and a little flat magnet strapped right to the tube neck. The flat type is rotated around the tube neck to adjust. If you look inside the tube neck, you will see the blue lateral pole piece sticking up off the blue gun. The magnet should be over it, but rotated to the right. It goes at two o'clock.
Dont try to adjust the covergence panel until you get the static convergence right.
It's normal to have to go through the routine more than once on a set thats way out of adjustment.
Good Luck,
John