Quote:
Originally Posted by Teron
Now that's some useful information. Is there a way to remedy that live chassis problem easily? Is it safe to assume that many of these Console tube units are live as well? Suggestions to remedy this are welcome.
Luckily I've learned long ago connections/tinkering is best done with power off, and also with devices not plugged in for further assurances that all is relatively safe.
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The best way to remedy the live chassis problem is to use an isolation transformer between the wall plug and the AC input of the amp. Antique Electronics Supply sells these.
I have seen a few cheaper consoles that had a transformerless hot chassis. These were usually record player only units or low end AM or AM/FM/phono combinations. I just gave away a BOTL Zenith tube AM/FM/phono console from the mid '60's with a hot chassis. All of the better consoles used a power transformer chassis.
Most power transformer sets used capacitors either across the AC line or connected between one side of the AC line and the chassis. If an "across the line" cap becomes leaky or shorts, it can explode and/or blow the fuse in your house. If a "line to ground" cap shorts, you'll have AC on the chassis! It's best to replace these caps with modern "safety capacitors" that are designed solely for AC line bypass.
www.radiodaze.com sells these types of caps as well as just about any other type of capacitor that you might need for tube electronics.