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There's not a real source for these CRTs. You'd have to end up pulling it from another set or have it rebuilt by hawkeye (expensive)
If it still has good grayscale and doesn't bleed like crazy on bright colors - its probably ok.
You can check the 6BK4, but if its weak or bad usually the dimness is accompanied by blooming and shrinking depending on the demand for brightness.
Checking the cathode current requires a good ammeter, some insulated probes, and a careful hand. Disconnect the cathode lead from the HO tube. if you don't know what that is look at receiving tube manual. Then connect the ammeter between the cathode pin of the HO tube and the disconnected lead. Should be somewhere between 200 and 210 millamperes. I think there was also a test insturment available at the time that allowed you to take it from the top cap - but DON'T TRY THAT WITH A NORMAL METER!
You might also get ahold of a good high quality HV probe and see what the HV is at the 2nd anode of the CRT.
Don't neglect the video section. have you checked tubes there yet? anything weak in the IF or video amplifier/output stages will cause weak contrast and dim pictures.
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Jordan
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