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Yikes, no, it will not work right w/o the electrolytics! They are essential to producing clean B+ to make the tubes work.
I looked at mine, it has 8 pushbutton holes. I say holes because the buttons are long gone.
I would replace whatever values are actually in the radio. Philco, IIRC, made a lot of undocumented changes midstream, or you may have a different version as you mentioned. Just read the caps and replace what's there.
If you can't figure out those electrolytic connections let me know and I might be able to pull the chassis out of mine and photograph the underside. I can't guarantee it'll happen right away though.
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