Quote:
Originally Posted by jr_tech
I don't know either, but perhaps a simple experiment with a coffee or large juice can would be in order. Aluminum canister sets in a cooking supply store, or perhaps eBay might be a source of the proper shield.
jr
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What, and trust real experimental evidence over theory!
It'll be fun to see what reaction people have as I measure cans with a tape measure at the grocery.
It's 5-1/2" in diameter so something like a coffee can might be close. I know people who can weld aluminum that thin if it comes down to needing to be non-ferrous.
I managed to get the CRT out. I should have realized I was doing something stupid when Schatzi hid in a box again. As I pulled the CRT forward the neck got stuck in the centering ring and the chassis was sliding on the wooden board I had it on as though it was on ice. When I tried to push it back in the board would just slide across the table instead of the chassis sliding back and the plate that was still glued to the CRT was now over the edge of the board so I couldn't set it down without having the neck snap. After some juggling I managed to get things under control again. I had to clean off some airplane cement that someone previously used to try to glue the base on the CRT.
Getting the plate off of the CRT was scary. I used CRC electronic cleaner to try to soften the contact cement. I was eventually able to remove it though one rubber pad tore. I didn't need to save them but they are hard and tough and I was afraid the glass would give.
The getter looks shiny so I think there's hope that I have a good 12VP4. I decided to give it a rest and try the swap tomorrow.
It's difficult to tell the difference between a 12VP4 and 12LP4 by just looking at them. The bell is the same, the neck on the 12VP4 is just shorter by about 3/4".
John