Note: Please remember that this thread was running for about two weeks on another forum. So, please don't think that I work this fast!!!
I did the dim bulb power up (for the first time ever) and connected it to a variac with a Kill-A-Watt connected in series. The lamp glowed dull orange and the watt meter indicated about .56 amp. The Sams said it should be .96 amp. I got B+ on the diodes and since it is a doubler, I got half on one and the full amount on the one downstream.
The main reason for the dim bulb was that I am always unsure of a diode to selenium connection when they use a plus sign. The Sams took that guess work out of it and I mounted and connected them as per the drawing. No dead short so I figured it was OK to step up the power. When I got up to 110 VAC, the set was not working but no smoke.
I took the dim bulb out of the circuit and again started to bring up the voltage and there it was, a faint raster. The B+ was the same as my dad had marked on the Sams 50 years ago. Voltage up to 110 and this is what I got!
I got good focus and could see the scan lines clearly. It appears that the Horiz frequency is way off but remember, no signal. The controls on the back seem to move the trace around on the screen as they should.
Hooked up a B & K TV analyzer and did not get a test pattern but the tone was coming through. So, I have lots more to do. But I am glad to be where I am. I was able to test my 7JP4 tubes and they all work. The one in this picture is my spare. I will put the one out of my second VT-71 in this TV because it seems to be the strongest. The 7JP4 that came with this set has what appears to be a dark spot in the center, not unlike when you have the brightness up too high and burn a line into the phosphorous on the screen. Not bad enough to get rid of though.
Maybe the caps for the Scott 299C will come from Canada tomorrow??? Then back to that to finish.