Quote:
Originally Posted by miniman82
I forget what mine is, probably a 150/200 watt. Got it free at a garage sale, complete with tip. Works well on those cans, provided you pump new solder into the joint. Seems like that old crap always has a higher melting point, for some reason.
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Looks like many of have noticed the same thing about the solder.
Quote:
Originally Posted by droptop
For soldering or de-soldering a chassis I use an 80 watt Weller SPG 80 iron bought at the local Lowe’s home center. I do quite a bit of work on antique radios and it has more than enough heat for chassis work. I recently had a Majestic model 90 battle ship chassis in for repairs and it does the job when removing the metal bypass capacitor cans riveted and soldered to the main chassis as well as twist lock tabs.
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The iron works best for me too. It has plenty of thermal mass.