Quote:
Originally Posted by Username1
C25 is the first place to go. C26, C27, C28 next if they are all in one can. But C25 will get rid of the hum. Jump it out with another one.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leadlike
These are fairly easy to restore, if you've done tube radios before. I did one such set, and it still hummed-until I replaced the Selenium rectifier.
Also, that set uses a very expensive tube-the 1L6. While the rest of the tubes in your set sell for about $3-$5 each, the 1L6 sells for about $35. Maybe more, now, since I haven't checked in awhile. Use a 1R5 (if you have one) in place of the 1L6 until you you get it working properly.
These are good performing radios when completed. I use one for a bedside radio.
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Username1,
This is a four section cap isolated from the chassis. It looks to me like they used the (metal cap can) twist tabs, which are isolated too, as a common connection point for lots of other components that needed to be insulated from the chassis...maybe the B-,...it's very confusing to me.
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I've pulled the can and am going to replace with individual caps--perhaps going with a bit larger values than the original. What do you think?
Thanks.
Leadlike,
My, quite a big and fancy bedside...
Yep, first thing I did was replace the SL with a diode and hum is still there. Thanks for the info on the tubes, I looked on that auction site and the 1L6's are outrageous, some are asking $100. I'll look for the 1R5 as you suggest to use during testing. BTW, is this a direct sub for the 1L6?
Thanks.