The problem with both those caps is that one end is deep into the subchassis. Deep enough that none of my tool can get in there. So i just left them in for now and completed work on the rest of the set.
I rebuilt the two bakelite block caps and removed all traces of the earlier repairs. That included putting some resistors back to the values indicated in the schematic. For example the 400 ohm cathode bypass on the output tube had been reduced to 150. I put a 390 in.
I didn't restuff the electrolytics though. I may someday, but I thought it's be nice to get a radio playing in a few days rather than the weeks I usually spend on a project
I did a simple check by hooking an ohmmeter across the AC plug and turned it on. Nuts - it measured infinity. I traced through the wiring and found that the power switch / tone control is fried. I temporarily jumped that and the resistance measure about 190 ohms - pretty much what I expected.
Next, I powered it up through a dim bulb setup. The bulb lit up bright. I removed a tube and the light went out. That seemed odd so I started testing the tubes and found the 25Z6 had a cathode short. Ugh! So these have the same flaws as 6X5s ? I bet that took out the power switch too.
I dug up a good one and tried again. This time I was treated to talk radio once it warmed up
Reception is pretty good on AM and I did pick up a few shortwave transmissions. There are 4 antenna terminals on the back and I'm not quite sure which one to use for each band. I'll play around with it more tomorrow.
That AC ballast resistor does get pretty toasty so I will look into replacing it using the tips above.
