[Reece]

Not too good an idea to plug in the radio for very long without checking everything out first. Do all the tubes light? If any doesn't, pull the tube and check for continuity with your ohmmeter between the two large pins (filament pins.) Should have continuity if the filament is good. Most of the time if the filament is good the tube probably is.

Pull the rectifier tube. Turn the chassis over and set your voltmeter for high AC voltage. Be sure the line cord is OK and not frayed. Clip the leads to the two small pins of the rectifier socket and turn the set on. Should read several hundred volts. Now check between each pin and chassis ground: each should read about half of the original high voltage reading, OK if there's a little difference between them. This would prove that the high voltage winding of the transformer is good. If so, leave the set on for about 20 minutes and watch carefully, sniff, feel the power transformer. If it just gets a little warm, good sign! Turn the set off and unplug.

If you have good tubes and a good power transformer, with the set off now check continuity on the speaker field coil, output transformer, RF coils, and so on. With your ohmmeter check resistance of each of the wire wound resistors and chokes shown in a long string across the bottom of the wiring diagram coming off the rectifier. Anything open or way off there could be a problem. You don't have to dig out the caps from the tar but can leave them disconnected and put the new caps under the chassis as they will be much smaller than the originals. Notice that caps A, B, and C are all 2 mfd. You can use 2 mfd poly film caps @ 630V or 4 or 5 mfd. electrolytics at 450V for all three of these caps.

Once you check out ALL parts to see that they are within spec, not shorted, not open, get the power supply working and go from there. No tube should have glowing red plates! Shut off immediately if seen and check for a short.

It's a process of elimination, part by part, checking it off the schematic as you go.