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Keep this in mind, the whole thing is kind of a loop. IF the fly were shorted the voltages behind it wouldnt all be perfect because the HOT would be overloaded, the feedback pulses would be missing and the phase correction would be missing.
I was talking to Dave about this and he mentioned that maybe the screen resistor has increased in value. On a 16 its a 13K at 7watt.
You did sub the HOT??
The thing that stumps me here is the lack of smoke. If the drive is missing the HOT would be red plating unless it failed, if the fly was bad the HOT would be red plating or the fly would be smoking.
If the damper was bad, the effency coil open or the screen supply resistor bad it could cause this but were assuming you subbed/checked all that stuff.
If you dont have a 4k resistor you could put 4 25watt bulbs in series and see if they light up fully. (can you even buy 25 watt incandescent bulbs any more?)
If the yoke or the focus coil was twacked it wouldnt develop full HV but that should result in high cathode current.
Low cathode current equils, bad hot, low screen voltage or low supply to plate.
If you dont have an adapter you really need to break into the cathode ground lead and check it.
You can check the plate current if you have a stand alone plate current meter. There are huge pulses on the plate (or should be) that will creamate a multimeter.
You can check the boost diode and focus rectifier with you cap tester using leakage test. With the tester on 450v the diode should read full leakage one direction and no leakage reversed.
Those are a bunch of random thoughs, im looking the the 16 sams in a trance so take what you can from it.
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