Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Nelson
If those two photos were taken with different cameras under different lighting conditions, that alone could result in different colors. If I photograph a B/W set playing, my digital camera makes the screen look blue!
Phil Nelson
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The photo on the right came off of my 21ct55 and I can tell you that the photo which is posted is dead nuts on WRT the way the actual color on the screen looked when I took that photo. In the photo of my 21ct55 you will properly note a preponderance of green and not enough blue in the sky. In addition if you look at the "yellow brick road" in the left hand photo, you can see that the yellow brick road has way too much red in it so that the yellow is actually in the range of orange and not yellow.
When I look at the photo on the left it strikes me that the color saturation is also very high. This may also account for a shift to the red if the crt does not track well. I would turn down the color intensity and see if you still have an orange brick road instead of a yellow brick road. The sky is also way to blue and so the white clouds are being oversaturated with blue. Turning down the saturation may also bring back the white balance.
IN the final analysis, if a set has a properly aligned color section, you should be able to get a good color picture with good color balance, if you pay close attention to adjusting the user controls to a "normal" real world picture. Color saturation, fine tuning, contrast and brightness will make a huge difference on getting a proper picture on these very early sets. Pushing the various adjustements to the extreme will get you a picture that does not look natural. By the mid 60's color roundies were a lot more linear and were producing a normal looking picture over a wider range of brightness, contrast and saturation.