Quote:
Originally Posted by earlyfilm
Chris,
The good news is, now that I've seen your schematic, your set does not seem to have the high level FM switch some same period Crosley's used that can create difficult to pinpoint intermittent problems.
When you unsolder the Brightness control BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE SHAFT NUT, check for a slider to case short. Also check for continuity between the outside terminals and check the slider for continuity between both ends while rotating it. (It probably would not hurt to perform the same test on the contrast, before removing it.)
Checked this control yesterday morning and it tested good
If no problem is found there, I'd suggest that before replacing any more parts, you take a couple of days off and then look at the set with new eyes, checking especially for correct wiring on items that you replaced after the mouse visit and using a bright light, for additional damage that was not noticed.
I agree, I put the set up yesterday morning, I may get back on it later today or tomorrow morning. I've triple checked my wiring and it seems to be correct, I even compared it to my parts set and it matches, I'd almost bet that there is additional rodent damage that I'm just not seeing.
Your symptoms do not seem to point to a single failure and this causes me to suspect either a newly introduced wiring error, or unnoticed rodent damage.
If you have an oscilloscope, it might be a great help in this case as the design of this set causes many controls to interact unexpectedly.
James
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One additional thing I noticed after replacing the L23 peaking coil I went back and checked pin voltages at the video amp tube and where I had 0 at pin 6 I now have 340VDC. Which is way high, it's supposed to be 185VDC. Pin 2 at the crt went from 0 to 250VDC, supposed to be 70 and Pin 11 went from 70 to 250 which is supposed to be 400VDC.
James, I really appreciate your advice, I wouldn't have gotten this far without your input.