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After you get the rust out of the gap, be sure to check the gap width all the way around. If the pole piece is not centered it could still scrape on the voice coil. Centering the cone in the gap should not be a problem since the spider is part of the cone, and has to bolt to the pole piece. In a modern speaker you use shims to center the voice coil then after it is glued up you remove the shims and glue the dust cap on. The glue used on the cone for the voice coil, spider, and dust cap is a cyanacrilate (AKP?) with an activator so that it sets instantly. Like a super glue that when you spray on the activator it dries even faster as in instantly. The edge of the cone is attached with the AKP glue to the frame, but since you cant use the activator you have to hold it in place. To hold it in place I use a flat ring and clamps. Once glue is applied you use a flat ring and clamps to hold the edge while it dries. A more flexiable glue (it looks like elmers glue, and dries clear) is used on top of the cone at the edge for any gaskets, and along the edge slightly down the cone for the flexiable cloth part of the cone, if there is one. I havn't rebuilt a speaker in years, but I still have a complete set of the flat rings and a little turntable to make the job easier. Look closely at how much of the voice coil can be seen above the pole piece this is critical in determining how deep the cone should be. On a modern speaker it was 1/4 inch I think. The idea was to center the voice coil vertically with the pole piece to provide equal travel in and out of the cone. Good luck.
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