Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveWM
I was a little bit surprised at how small an adjustment was required to from practically no green (green would look either blue or brown depending on tint setting) to perfect green, the adjustment was about a 1/4 turn and it is very narrow. I have had quite a few sets that had brownish greens, so next time before I touch anything I am just going right to the vectorscope and the gated rainbow to see whats happening. But you mention that in some cases a round petal design is not optimum. Most of the CRTs I work on are the 21fjp22 or 23vadp22 types. I have a both grey face and green face types of the roundies.
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The circular case has been closer to correct than the case of greater B-Y for all tubes, since there never was a tube combining rare-earth red and NTSC green. The early tubes (weak red with NTSC green), and the later tubes (sulfide red or rare earth red with sulfide green), both require something closer to a circular petal pattern.
You are lucky you aren't looking at a Motorola with the single tube chroma section - that got G-Y off the cathode, where it was weaker than nominal and matrixed from the wrong proportions of R-Y and B-Y, resulting in that "brown or blue" syndrome you observed.