Quote:
Originally Posted by mstaton
Probably not wise to run the filaments directly from the cars power due to the fact that it's at least 13.8 volts and higher when cold. Filaments wont be too happy. .
|
A series power resistor, or even the resistance of the supply wiring may be all you need to get it to 12.6V.
Something else to be very mindful of: When mounting the amp in the trunk or anywhere else, be very careful where you drill holes for screws or anything else. You really don't want to drill a hole into the gas tank, catalytic converter, exaust, drivetrain and such. And be sure that where you do place a nut and screw or pointy end of a sheet metal screw won't get hit by something as the car bounces along on a bumpy road. And be sure you can still get the spare tire and jack out if you ever need to. Or some access port the mechanic may need to get into (fuel pump switch and such).
If your proof of concept test works out, you may want to take the iron out of the amp, and custom build a chassis to create a new amp to fit. And use rugged tubes.
Drop by AudioKarma, our sister forum site. one is for car audio
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=149
and tube audio
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=14