Quote:
Originally Posted by Username1
That is actually pretty bad if you don't mind me saying. (for that far side, overall very good.) You have to be sure the controls that are for that side are not near their extremes. If they are, you need to set them mid point in the range, and start over. You should begin with all the other controls mid point as well....
As you do this alignment, it should be easy to have to make only minor adjustments to bring the picture back to perfect. I learned this later on in life. If you move around the yoke to get purity right, then move around the convergence assembly you should be able to get it almost prefect before having to adjust all the stuff on the convergence board.
I experimented with this approach after working on a set for 4 hours and ending up with what you have. The coarse adjustments can be off from bumping the set over the years, and make it look really bad. But doing a very good job on the coarse adjustments should only require the smallest of adjustments on the convergence board.
Set all the resistors back to where the dust marks are, do what you can with the coils, then do all the coarse adjustments, yoke, conv. assembly, purity, then move the fine adjustments only a little...
Your first step is degaussing the tube, then don't change its orientation till yer done.
PS - You should also be sure each of the fine adjustments is responding as they should be.
|
I had already degaussed the screen with an external coil, set purity, set static convergence and set grayscale. The convergence was the last step, but isn't cooperating. There are no dust marks as the boards were cleaned and all the pots (not coils, though) were cleaned with deoxit and then fader lube. So there's not point to go back to. When I got the set someone had already messed with every single control and they sure didn't have a clue.
I'm assuming the center point is not as simple as turning the pot to its center position, is it? Yeah, didn't think so. Hmmmm.....
I will attempt this convergence next weekend as I've just ordered some replacement electrolytic caps. Seems in really dark scenes I'm getting the "jail bar" effect and on my last set it was a 10uf 300V cap. Figured I'd replace all of them under the chassis while I'm there. Once those are done, I'll start the adjustment process over again.
Thanks for the input. I'll keep you updated of my progress and with your help I might just get there.
__________________
Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL
Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650
|