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Well the video didn't work out. It was too crazy trying to change the probe to different pins and change the scope settings all while trying to video. I would have spent longer editing the video than creating it. So I just went down the line and scoped the pins in order of color.
Below are the connections and the scope's volt/div setting. They all were with a time/div of 20us.
Green
Cathode .5V/Div
G1 20V/Div
G2 10V/Div
Red
G2 2V/Div
Cathode .5V/Div
G1 20V/Div
Blue
G2 2V/Div
Cathode .2V/Div
G1 20V/Div
When you look at the green G2 waveform, compare it to the red and blue G2s. The Green waveform came out nice and clean. The Red and blue, however, is a multiple form again. I don't know why this is happening, but the red and blue from should look the same as the green.
The attached pics will be in order of above (starting with Green Cathode). The first 6 will be in this post and the next 3 will be in the next post (seems only 6 can be attached per post).
Hope this helps. If it's true there shouldn't be any AC on the G1s and G2s, what's the deal?
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL
Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650
Last edited by TinCanAlley; 10-06-2013 at 03:35 PM.
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