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the ones in the vert may be bad even if orange (and prob if brown). the symptoms will be poor vert lin and maybe jumpiness.
The .001's are good to replace, I read somewhere the one on the primary side of the vert out is there to decouple any horz noise that is leaking back from the yoke windings.
I think you are right about the thermistor, I don't recall seeing degaussing circuits until the 16's
If you care to you can add a jumper wire off the cathode of the horz out tube. I routinely do this to make cathode current checks easy. I just snip the lead that goes the ground and add a length of insulated wire to that pin on the tube socket, then lead it out to the back of the chassis with a spade type connector that can be screwed down after checking current.
I also will replace the caps that are often in the AC inter lock, may be bumblee bee in there across the line.
There are 3 caps in the grid circuit of the 6GU7 diff amps. One of them that rest right between the tube and a power resistor is almost always weak when tested on a old school cap tester. If I have the chassis out I generally replace all 3 of those .01's.
one last thing to check, there are a couple jumper wires on the chroma board often are rotten and will break right off. If this happens the screeen will be tinted one solid color like the screen drive is turned wide open. I have seen a lot of these break so its a common problem. You will know for sure if one of the big power resistors is cold on chroma board (one of the wires feeds thru that). They can look OK but still be broken. A slight tug upwards will reveal that.
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