[DaveWM]

I would stick with the 0082 if that is what is there, and go high on the voltage, so if its a 1600, I put in 2000, the price is about the same and the fit will be better anyway as old caps are larger than new ones.

sorry about the 6Gu7, I should have checked, the caps that have been bad on those is the .01, its right behind the 6FQ7 that is close to the middle of the board (not the one on the end), but I replace them all anyway. I can say that its hard to tell if there was any change (the bad test was the fuzzy eye opening on the value check, leakage tested fine).

I presume you are checking the caps with a old school cap tester that can apply working voltages, those little hand held DMMs are worthless when checking caps since the failure mode generally does not show up at the low voltages they use. I replaced the .001 simply because my cap tester maxed out at 450v so I could not check them at the rated voltage.

Most of the time the film caps are ok, The ones that have given me trouble in the past have been those few in the vert circuit. I generally dont do mass recaps on sets of this era without at least trying to see if it works (that way you have a base line to compare to).

The issue on mass recaps is the introduction of user error, if you are good at diagnosis then you can generally find the problem but if not you can make a real tough dog out of what may have been a working set. RCA with its PCB make wiring errors hard to do, but there is still the possiblity of value errors, .001 for a .01 as an example.

What I do is when replacing (that I think may be a problem) is remove the cap, test with the cap tester, if bad I will leave the cap tester alone and check the new cap going in (always a good idea, I have had bad brand new caps). By leaving the cap tester settings unchanged I compare the value that came out to the value that goes in (even bad caps will give an indication of value on the old school cap tester). If I do not have to adj the settings much then that is a double check that the value is correct (besides just reading the cap values). So you not only check the part going in (value and leakage) but also confirm the value is correct. This is esp helpful with the new numbering like 103 for .01 etc...