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The tabs are bonded with some kind of adhesive, so this isn't a ROHS solder issue. A possible repair (I've had about 50-50 success rate with, others claim more) is to wedge something between the tab and the frame (I usually use thermal transfer pads) to keep the affected tab under pressure. You may get a bit more life out of an otherwise bad panel this way, but I don't consider it a real repair.
I have also seen the tab completely removed and reattached with Z-axis tape. The person doing this implied that the tape was incredibly expensive and hard to find, but googling since suggests otherwise - so this maybe viable if you're hands are steady enough to get the alignment right (mine are not).
As for LEDs vs CCFLs I wonder if it's really a fair comparision.
I have laptops that are now 20+ years old. I have a couple of LCD monitors that are now 15 years old. I have a few LCD TVs that are 10-12 years old. All have working CCFL backlights. These all probably have Japanese or Korean panels in them. They almost all cost thousands when new.
Cheapo 2010+ CCFL backlit LCDs are also failing earlier than I would have expected. If a see a certain panel through the vent slots that was used in a lot of $199 special 32" sets sold here I won't even bother opening it anymore. I will either have a bad backlight, bad panel, bad T-CON or a combination thereof. In the unlikely event that it has say a power supply fault it will develop a bad backlight, bad panel, bad T-CON shortly after the repair and come back.
I'm also seeing a lot of dead LEDs in the LED down lights that have been installed everywhere lately due to price drops and "green" incentive schemes. I was in one 3 year old building recently where 8 of the down lights installed in one room had one or more dead LED.
In the various generic LED backlit TVs I've had there is some degree of standardization in the LED driver boards. You can swap parts between different brands/models to some degree. When they do fail it tends to be the a FET rather than the driver IC.
The driver boards in more expensive brand name sets are not interchangable and the IC seems to fail more often. They also seem to shut down with an imbalance error on panels that look fine by eye when driven with a "dumb" generic driver board.
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