Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M
EDIT:One thing that might loosen your slug is (provided the wire is thick enough to stand the current) with the set turned off connect a D cell battery across the coil and let it warm up until the slug loosens up, then remove the battery and the slug and then quickly try to clean any wax or other gunk from the slug and coil threads before it cools...
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I still may try this as I would like an intact slug in my new coil, but the other half of me says leave it alone; for now at least. I have actually ended up with some better results then where I was heading earlier. I thoroughly cleaned the cup that the HV rectifier sits in and eliminated (for now at least) the corona arc and resultant interference that it presents to the raster.
Also, I took out the regulator tube that I had put in the night I checked the cathode current as well as the H.O. tube and put back what had been in there before. I didn't really have a reason to change the H.O. tube other than to try to get rid of the barkhausen interference lines ever present on both sides of the raster. Most prominent on the right side which I think is covered more by the damper tube. I may be wrong in these statements and welcome correction. I say barkhausen lines meaning a light line that once was straight but now is twisted like a snake. Sort of like the horizontal hold is about to let go although it is stable.
The regulator tube was just one of two that I had that tested better on emissions and no gas. However, when I pulled it I noticed that there is a sort of a ring that you see on I believe the would be the plate or the upper portion. The dark coloring of that ring is gone and is copper colored as if some arching has gone on in whatever set it came out of. It is not from use in my set. I just picked it up in a box of tubes at the flea market. Even though this tube had a better emission, it has a shorter life test on my Hickok 6000A. At any rate my H.O. cathode current stayed around 200mA as long as I ran the set as opposed to the runaway current that I mentioned previously. I still don't know how it will perform over a long period of time, but I will find out and post.
Again, the coil would naturally be better intact and able to be dipped, but I certainly don't want to further damage it as I have absolutely no leads on another. I don't see why they are so hard to find; at least second hand. As far as heating it up with a battery goes I am afraid that I may short the windings by burning away the laminate. At least I had adjusted it before it froze up and being new I fear that the only way that it could freeze up was that it was somehow overheated and the insulation that melted is holding it in place. As long as it isn't shorted I am ok and I have the spec sheet resistance values.
Thanks so much for the tips everyone!