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Old 09-29-2014, 08:50 PM
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Tubejunke Tubejunke is offline
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Location: Martinsville, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Username1 View Post
Hi !

I believe I was unclear, I have 2 sets of the same model, but NOT the one you have.

If the slug in the coil is broken, remove the coil and drill out the broken slug, start
with a drill just a little bigger than the hex opening, then go up from there. Eventually
you will have broken pieces, and have to knock or unscrew them out with steel wire,
or very small drill bits. Unless you can get a new coil and just replace the entire thing.
Yeah, that though me off a bit, but still good information and may actually work, but I bet my Barkhausen line is from something else. The method on the slug is good too, but I am thinking of trying an EZ out to remove the slug. The main thing is not damaging the coil.

I gave some specifics last night on G2 coupling capacitors and what I see in my schematic. Will someone look that information over and give me a short lesson in coupling and which of the two capacitors mentioned would be the coupling cap. Again, the one that goes straight from tube to tube would be the logical choice, but I could easily be wrong. Being that they are both in this critical circuit, it would be smart to get rid of them both. I will have to see what type they are to pass some judgement. There are actually two or three "bumblebee" caps in this set that I know need to go. I think the black beauties have a bad reputation as well. There was one of those across the windings of my old efficiency coil. The old brown 'drops' are probably the best as they are not paper/foil like the others.
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