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l I found out that evidentally all scope probes are made with resistance wire. Someone on another page mentioned a need for the same thing as I and they thought that they could just cut the probe off and add some clips. Not quite that simple.....
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Actually, the wire is just wire. The "probe" as a finished item, has an impedance
matching item on it, and includes a trim cap that you make sure the little test
wave looks square when tested. It's on the front of that scope, 1khz test I think it says...
1khz at something like .5v...
if the probe has also a 10X divider built in, you will have a switch that will divide your
signal source by 10. 100v signal will max at 10v. I use to use home made probes with
rg6 and connectors from RS, just be careful where you stick it, you don't wanna
overload the vertical amplifiers in the scope. AND most important, check to be sure
your potential between ground for the scope, and ground on yer test item is 0V.
Be aware Hot chassis sets can make cool sparks shows if you ground a ground
to a not so ground ground.
Also check the sensitivity of the brightness control, it may be noisy and flash the
screen. But mostly as mentioned, the sync will flash the screen if it's not
running freely enough. If you hook up your ch1 to the test point, and sync
off ch1 as well, you should see a stable square wave, and the sync should lock,
and you should be able to get a stable screen... turn the variable sync threshold
you should see it lock at one end, and maybe even stop scanning,
and lose sync at the other extreme...
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