Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisW6ATV
From what I have read here, after days or weeks soaking face down in water, an RCA-type CRT (as opposed to a Zenith-type, on which the water trick does not work) will then need to have thin wooden shims put in the edges at multiple locations, and they will need to be GRADUALLY pushed in further over an additional period of time. I have seen mention of this shimming process being done with the CRT being put back into the water as well as with it being kept out. The big thing is to not push the shims in too far, too fast, since that is always what leads to a broken glass faceplate. The indication that the water-and-shim process is working seems to be when "fingers" of air start to appear between the faceplate and the PVA "goo" next to or near the shim ends. Others may be able to post better and more correct descriptions of the process.
On the one CRT that I did (using the heat-gun method, a few years ago), I only put thin pieces of double-stick tape around the edge of the CRT and did not try to "seal" the faceplate to the tube again.
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Thanks for that. As you know, it gets super hot in the Phoenix area in Summer. If I just put the CRT upright in the sun, that alone might be enough to get things going for the spacers! Just kidding, don't want to risk the CRT.
Read through another thread about cat's here. Why are form spacers needed under the safety glass prior to reseal? Isn't the safety glass bonded to the CRT directly? Can't you just place the cleaned up safety glass directly on the CRT and reseal? I would prefer to use tape like you did, just seems easier and less messy.